ok,

i was lookin at this article in import racer...
they had a b16a2 stock block. re-sleeved with darton sleeves stock crankshaft,
had forged connecting rods and forged low-compression turbo pistons...
comp cams, aem cam sprockets, comp cams valve springs, Edelbrock victor x intake manifold, 68 mm throttle body, aem fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. and 72-pound injectors. then had a turbo and intercooler. wastegate, hondata programmable ecu, then spark plugs and wires. think i got everything, not sure.

well they were able to run 22 psi of boost, and got 522 horse at the flywheel.

i was just wondering along this road like using a b18c1 or b18c5 would be better, i could just re sleeve and get low compression pistons in the b18c5?
or totally re do the b18c1. which would be more logical?

also what is a good compression ratio to run lots of boost? thanks for all the info.

 

Using a b16 is a little... odd for a high power turbo setup, as your displacement is limited (by .2 liters) by the short stroke of the b16 crank. Also, you can't straight out use b18 crank and rods because the deck height of the b16 is just a hair lower than the b18s.

For absolute max power, you're going to want to go with a b18c/b18c1 block with either a b18c head or a b16 head. For a buildup like this going with a b18c5 is just useless because you'll be replacing all of the components that were improved in the R engine. Basically, you'd be shelling out ~2 grand for a little 5 on the front of your block and a limited slip differential.

Headwise, it doesn't really matter. You'll get slightly lower compression with a pr3 head, but really just go with whatever you can get cheapest. You'll be picking your own pistons anyway, so you can compensate for that .3 CR difference without any problems.


As for compression ratio, that'll really depend on your goals and tuning abilities but likely it'll fall between 8.5:1 and 9.5:1.

 

cool, thanks for your help.

 

I don't think a B16 is a bad choice for a boosted engine, people make 400hp on those blocks, I don't think this build is going to outreach that power level. And the near perfect rod-stroke ratio can be an asset on not putting a piston/rod through a sleeve.

The C5 block also comes with a factory nitrided crank, which doesn't suck. And you can offset some of the cost, by selling off the internals. Even so, you're right, pretty pricey.

I think a B16, is a good economical choice, and you can just about get away with a stock head.

-PHiZ

 

im presently in the middle of my b16 turbo build:

so far i have

erl superdeck 1.8 je 8.5 pistons, stock head for now, and a new garrett gt35 turbo.

im hoping to have around 350whp at like 13-16psi

 

Who the heck is consulting on your build!?
-PHiZ

 

im running a gsr crank in my b16

 

are you sure about that? what kinda rods?

 

im using custom crower rods

 

Well, if you are going to purchase an engine for turbo, I don't see why you would buy a b16 unless you had very specific needs. After all, you could pick up a b18b for less, and get more power out of a low-priced setup. And for a high priced setup, there's not reason not to get a b18c of some flavor.

I don't understand why you would use custom length rods when you could pick up a GSR block for less. :a: