Is this bolt reverse thread? This is on a 95 Accord EX. I have the tool to keep the harmonic balancer in place, and I just broke a 3/8 rachet extension trying to loosen the bolt to get the crank pulley off. So, am I pulling the right way (lefty loosy) If so, I'll just go to 1/2 inch rachet next. That thing is TIGHT!! Thanks for any input.

 

heh...we've all been there, man. Yes, that bolt is normal thread, counterclockwise loosens it. The engine turns the opposite direction as the bolt removal direction to gaurantee that it won't back out. Consequently, it's ridiculously tight.

Squirt some penetrating oil into the bolt. Then, you're going to need at least a 2-foot, 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar and a 6-point, 17mm socket. With the car on the ground, hand brake set, and transmission in 3rd or 4th gear, get the breaker bar on the bolt, put a big cheater bar (piece of pipe) over the breaker bar, and pull with all your strength. That should crack it loose.

Put the bolt back in the same way, just give it a good twist with the breaker. Then find a shop, pay em 5 bucks to put your car on a lift and hit that bolt with an impact gun to make sure it's good and snug.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'll drop it off the jack stands to perform this.... sounds violent

 

yessssaaaahhh.... I got the bolt off last night.

The hardware required:
(2) 10" 1/2" drive extensions (these came out past the wheel, so I was pulling outside the body of the car.

(1) 19mm 6pt deep socket (1/2" drive)
(1) 12" 1/2" drive braker bar





and the big dog:

(1) 5 foot length steel pipe

At first I was nervous with the ability to apply this much torque to a bolt. So, I started pulling, slowly at first. By the time I busted that bolt loose, I was really rocking back on the end of that cheater pipe. I can't imagine the amount of pressure that was being applied at the bolt. Anyway.... I'm very happy. On with the head gasket and timing belt job!! :thumbup:

My wife took some pics of the setup I had... I'll scan and post when I get them developed.

 

i use an ingersoll rand 3/4" impact. takes 2 seconds.

 

You really should torque the crank pulley back to spec, really anytime you unbolt anything on the motor, you need to torque it back to spec, dont just get an impact gun or a breaker bar and call it good. If you do it right you'll only have to do it once

 

I didn't have that luxury, so I made due with hand tools.

 

I agree completely. I'll torque it to spec when it goes back on.

 

It is a good idea to torque it to spec, I know. But, much like the reply to the impact gun, not all of us have the tools needed to get a bolt to 147 ft.lbs. of torque. My biggest torque wrench (got 3 of em) stops at 125 Ft. Lbs., so that's as far as I got.

I work at Mitchell Repair, so I'm surrounded by mechanics. They all told me that a hit with an impact gun on that crank bolt is enough to hold it. That'll set it to around 100 ft.lbs., and the fact that the bolt turns against the rotation of the pulley will set the bolt into place over a few miles.

 

I don't want to get into a pissing contest about torquing or not torquing.... let's get back to what's important: I got the bolt off :thumbup:

(can you tell that I'm happy about this? )

Thanks for all the input guys... I'm sure I'll be back with more questions before this project is over and done.