Polyurethane bushings? YES!
#21
Originally posted by LX4CYL
yeah, I'll probably only use the jack on the lower bolts that I can't reach when the wheels are on. The other upper strut tower bolts can be tightened once I get the car back on the ground...
yeah, I'll probably only use the jack on the lower bolts that I can't reach when the wheels are on. The other upper strut tower bolts can be tightened once I get the car back on the ground...
#22
actually if you have all urethane bushings, you really don't need to worry about the preload on the bushings cuz they basically spin freely. But yeah if you have any stock rubber bushings it is very important to preload them before you tq it all down or else you will probably be tearing up bushings in no time.
#23
Originally posted by karlt10
Well, you still do- but anytime your working on a piece of suspension with a bushing that will be under load, you MUST not fully tighten & torque the bolts until the car is sitting on it's own weight.
If your bolting the top of a shock, that's no problem. But if you're bolting up a control and you do it while it's up in the air on jack stands and the wheel is hanging, and then sit it back on the ground, the bushings will essentially be 'wound up'. Know what I mean?
What you do is mount everthing and just snug the bolts- lower the car, THEN actually torque the bolts. That way when you sit the car on it's own weight the bushing was able to rotate in it's mount freely, and now is ready to be torqued.
kt
Well, you still do- but anytime your working on a piece of suspension with a bushing that will be under load, you MUST not fully tighten & torque the bolts until the car is sitting on it's own weight.
If your bolting the top of a shock, that's no problem. But if you're bolting up a control and you do it while it's up in the air on jack stands and the wheel is hanging, and then sit it back on the ground, the bushings will essentially be 'wound up'. Know what I mean?
What you do is mount everthing and just snug the bolts- lower the car, THEN actually torque the bolts. That way when you sit the car on it's own weight the bushing was able to rotate in it's mount freely, and now is ready to be torqued.
kt
#24
Originally posted by tokyoracer
humm.. i wonder how u will be able to torque everything down when the car is on the ground resting on it's own weight when u have ur car dropped 2"-2.5" already? i'm a skinny guy... and i can barely get under the car when it's dropped... let alone getting enough leverage to torque that sucker down.
humm.. i wonder how u will be able to torque everything down when the car is on the ground resting on it's own weight when u have ur car dropped 2"-2.5" already? i'm a skinny guy... and i can barely get under the car when it's dropped... let alone getting enough leverage to torque that sucker down.
#25
Originally posted by karlt10
No squeak- but that's in the prep. If the full kit doesn't come with grease (I bought my piece by piece- mistake), get some synthetic grease and lube all bushings, sleeves, etc. Big thing, like all suspension work, DO NOT fully tighten/torque mountings until the car is back on the ground- otherwise you put the parts into a bind.
kt
No squeak- but that's in the prep. If the full kit doesn't come with grease (I bought my piece by piece- mistake), get some synthetic grease and lube all bushings, sleeves, etc. Big thing, like all suspension work, DO NOT fully tighten/torque mountings until the car is back on the ground- otherwise you put the parts into a bind.
kt
I definitely recommend bushings for those looking for some more suspension tuning. I noticed a huge increase in feel and quick transitions on my car even though it's 3 years old, but has 120 autocross on it.
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Sponsored by: KAM Racing Sports, Falken Tires, Progress Technology, Brady's High Performance, Taggart Performance Engineering, Rotora Brakes
Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO!
Autocross Help Page