TOOLS

• 7 mm socket (optional)
• 10mm socket
• 17 mm socket or wrench
• Socket extension (optional)
• Ratchet
• Philips-head screwdriver
• Small flat-head screwdriver
• Regular sized flat-head screwdriver
• Pliars
• Rags

PROCEDURE

• Remove the rear seat (10mm bolt near the center of the seat between the bottom and rear seats).

• Remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the fuel tank.

• Remove the access panel cover (4 philips-head screws) to reveal the fuel tank cover.


• Pull the rubber boot up on the connector and disconnect it.


• Remove the banjo bolt (17mm - remember to keep track of how the crush washers go back on). Be aware that fuel will likely spew out so have a rag ready. Also remove the other hose from the cover (fuel return line).

• Remove the 6 nuts from the cover (10mm)


• Pull the entire cover up and the pump will follow. Remove everything attached from the tank.


• Pull the bottom of the pump away from the assembly.


• Push the edges of the green tab down and slide it up toward the cover (push where red arrows are)


• Push the tab on the black connector to disconnect it from the pump


• Slide the original clamps on the hose away from their original positions and remove the pump from the assembly. Also remove the hose.

• Pull the rubber boot up from the bottom of the pump to reveal a little round keeper on the filter


• Remove the keeper with a small flat-head screwdriver and keep track of it - you may need to reuse this piece


• Place the rubber boot onto the new filter and attach the filter to the new pump. Add the keeper to keep it in place. I used a 7mm socket and extension to apply pressure evenly on the keeper to make it easier to install.


• Place the new hose and clamps on the new pump. Be careful so that the clamps don't touch the assembly when the pump is in place. Metal to metal in a fuel tank is not a good idea.


• Place the pump back onto the assembly and tighten the clamps



• Attach the wire plug onto the new pump. Remember to put the green keeper back onto the wire plug.

• Drop the whole assembly - pump and all - back into the tank

• Tighten the 6 10mm nuts in a criss-cross pattern (like you would your wheel)

• Reinstall the line with the banjo bolt and crush washers

• Reinstall the return line and slide the clamp back into place

• Place the wire plug back on and pull the boot back into place

• Reinstall the panel cover

• Reinstall the rear seat

Done!

 

Nice writeup. You never cease to amaze me. I will definitely use this when I do my long overdue stock fuel pump replacement with a larger volume one. :goodjob:

 

Nice, but you forgot step one: Use up your gasoline, or drain/siphon it out.

On my '95 Integra, that fuelpump hole isn't the highest point of the tank. If your gas tank is full, you might get a couple gallons of gasoline gushing out when you unbolt that flange.

 

Good to know, thanks for the input.

 

When I did mine, I was sure to first disconect the Battery! Don't like to take chances with gas.

Before the pump failed, I felt the car loosing power and I could hear it humming. I called a friend and warned him that I would probably need a pull home. Pump completely quit a few miles after that. That pump made it over 375,000 miles. So I bought a used one for $30 to replace it.

 

nice writeup. i'll be swapping in a walbro at some point

 

this thread is hella old

 

Thank you for taking the time to post this very helpful information, your work is much appreciated.

 

Very glad to help.

 

does a teg fuel pump push more fuel then a civic? just a question cuz i have a teg fuel pump layin around and it works so should i put it in?