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DIY: 15 minute Axle Replacement

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Old 09-23-2009 | 01:24 PM
  #81  
rlarge98tl's Avatar
rlarge98tl
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From: smyrna, DE
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Hi, i have a 98tl 2.5 and was wondering if i can use this diy for this car as well. I need to replace both sides
Old 09-23-2009 | 02:32 PM
  #82  
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Jafro
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The tools might be different, but the process should be the same for all CV-axle front ends... unless they have packed bearing assemblies. Pretty much everything made from '92-on has sealed bearings, and a TL fits that demographic so you should be fine. You might have different sized sockets, but that's about it.

PS: Welcome to HAN. Wow there are lots of people in this thread who have ONLY posted here.

Last edited by Jafro; 09-23-2009 at 02:46 PM.
Old 09-23-2009 | 07:13 PM
  #83  
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nonbox
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I have rusted splines and a prybar doesn't do a good job. Has anyone used a slide hammer tool instead of a prybar to get the axle out? The slide hammer tool will also prevent gouging up the transmission case.

Pics of the slide hammer tool:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace026.jpg


Pics of the crowfoot adapter:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...replace025.jpg


Thumbnail Pics:

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/
Old 09-24-2009 | 02:58 AM
  #84  
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rlarge98tl
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Jafro, thanks for your response, this is a great site and very helpful.
Old 07-27-2010 | 03:53 PM
  #85  
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armandjones82
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This DIY is very useful to all of us. I now know what to do if i needed to change the CV Axle Assembly of my car. But i'm still wondering if it can go up to 15 mins or so. I'd better try that out as soon as I can have the parts!
Old 08-13-2010 | 04:21 AM
  #86  
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engrmike
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Since the first time I did this, many years ago, I've found it best to replae the seal for the inboard side of the joint any time I replace an axle. it adds about $10 and a couple minutes to the job but I think it's worth it. Also, lightly grease the edge of the joint going into the transmission (that is going to be the first part of the axle to go into the seal. Manual, I use oil, auto I use transmission fluid. This keeps it from binding on the outside of the seal and tearing or distorting it.
Old 09-15-2010 | 01:52 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by qwerl
I just finished replacing the driver side CV axle on my 1992 Honda Accord and discovered a great way to separate the ball joint without any special tools. I used a jack to pop out the ball joint bolt. First I put the castle nut back on the bottom of the bolt just a few turns so I wouldn't mess up the threads on the bolt. Then I put the jack right under the castle nut and jacked it up about 8 or more inches which greatly compressed the spring. I used the cheap scissor jack that came with the car. Then I banged the side of the lower arm where there is a flat spot for hitting it. This is at the point just under the ball joint. The steering wheel was turned all the way to the right so I had the most room for swinging the hammer. I banged on it hard for what seemed like a long time. I may have lowered the jack an inch or two during this process because I was afraid that too much spring tension was actually causing the bolt to bind. You may want to try starting at the max height of the jack and progressively lowering the jack during your banging. Finally the lower arm popped down. At that point I just removed the jack and took off the castle nut and the joint came apart easily. The ball joint bolt was practically welded into the lower arm as I would guess most are at this age but once the stiction was broken I could easily lift the rotor assembly right out of the lower arm. I also sprayed some WD40 all around the bolt 30 minutes before I tried all this. Hope this helps.
Well, great work! You have helped me to improve my knowledge about this field. Thank you so much for sharing.
Old 09-26-2010 | 08:30 AM
  #88  
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kenny8585
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If the grease comes off from the ball joint then it really not going to be good on the long run. Might have to change it.
Old 04-30-2011 | 04:57 PM
  #89  
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keithly
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Thanks Jafro...you rock! I'm not sure what to do as I have successfully swapped the right side, but the left side is not seating in the tranny. I have taken it out, twisted, then retried inserting into the transmission (approx 20 times) and it stops short by about 1"-1 1/2". I will not hit it with a hammer as others have suggested...not gonna ruin perfectly good axles that way. I know the old clip is not left inside (it is still on the old axle) so I'm perplexed! It FEELS like it's bottoming out in the tranny (almost like the shaft is too long) but it is the same length as the old one. Anyone who can help, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Old 05-01-2011 | 08:45 AM
  #90  
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keithly
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UPDATE - I took of the retainer clip and it slipped in fine. So it's obviously the clip keeping it from seating. I've tried positioning the clip so the opening was up, down, and any other direction with the same result as above. Any suggestions????????



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