Excellent write-up - Thanks! I'm now stuck on the LBJ. I had to remove it with a separator, and hitting the side of the LCA it eventually came out - it was rusted in. In doing this, the separator crushed the end of the threads where the 2 cross holes are for the cotter pin. so...

I need to replace the LBJ. Is this do-able at home or am I in for a trip to the dealer? Haynes says the dealer, but I kind of figure that if anyone will know how to DIY, they'll be here somewhere.

Thanks in advance...

 

Yeah, actually... those people are here somewhere. When I did my axles, I replaced both LBJ's because they really needed it anyway. Pictures can be found here:

http://homepage.mac.com/jafro/PhotoAlbum8.html

Go to that page. Most of the axle replacement pics from this DIY are in there, but there are a few specific pictures of the ball joint replacement in there. There's a snap-ring holding the LBJ in. Remove the snap ring and the one seal retaining ring from the hub (so you don't bend it as the LBJ comes out) and BFH the LBJ out. Press the new joint in with whatever you can find (I used welding clamps and patience). Put the new snap ring on it, put the seal retainer back in, and you're done. If you don't buy Honda LBJ's and end up with MOOG or another good aftermarket part, you might be lucky enough to get one with grease fittings. 5g and later civic suspensions don't have grease fittings but some aftermarket parts do. OMG those last longer. Just be sure to pack 'em with grease before putting it back on the ground if it did indeed come with grease fittings.

Tools needed: Flat-blade screwdriver, snap-ring pliers, BFH, bearing press or 6" welding clamps or whatever. So specific, I know. The important thing is that you're having fun doing it. Possibly a grease gun.

EDIT: ah what the heck, here are the pics...






This thread wasn't about doing LBJ's, because it throws off the whole 15-minute thing and needs more tools. Enjoy.

 

Too good! Thanks ever so much for this. I'll attack it (literally) in the next day or 2 and let you know how it went.

 

Jafro, thanks again for the excellent info. Now it looks like I need to do wheel bearings I checked out your pictures and noticed 2 things....

1. no pics of wheel bearings. I assume that again I can do this at home. Circlip holds them in from the outside, and I'll use the old bearing as a drift to coax the new one in if required.

2. You have a pic showing gas at 1.89 a gallon! ahhh..... the good old days!

Thanks again, Dave

 

Thanks, Jafro!

I just changed the axles in my 1996 TL using hand tools following your directions. The only thing I needed that you didn't mention was a ball-joint puller, then it was a breeze. Much appreciation!

 

How do you get the ball joint loose from the lower control arm without damage?
Which tool works to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm?
I have used a pickle fork before and it destroyed the ball joint.

 

CLIFF NOTES: RTFM

NOVEL: nonbox, several if not all of the different methods have already been covered in this thread. But I will list the methods again in order of easiest-to-biggest-PITA. Use any of these 4 methods with the details others have shared, and you won't have to replace anything but the axle and a cotter pin. If you don't use one of these methods, instructions are also in this thread for replacing what you broke. :P

1) pry down on the LCA with a pry bar and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This method sorta needs 2 people but it's usually only 1 whack and you're done. Alternate sides if it doesn't, because the stud from the LBJ that goes through the hub is tapered. It's a piece of cake.

2) jack up the rotor to lift the hub assembly, and beat the SIDE of the LCA with at least a 3-lb hammer. This is a great 1-man method, but you have to be more cautious than to just avoid hitting your friend with the hammer, because the jack can make the car unstable if you're not paying attention.

3) ball joint separator. too much hassle. Use only in a pinch. It's like the three bears... This separator is too big, this one is too small. this one mushroomed the bolt anyway... They're clumsy, tedious tools that are harder to find than what's needed for options 1 or 2.

4) leave it connected and disconnect the whole LCA/hub/strut assembly. This really is the most difficult and time consuming option. It's heavier, and requires removing 3 bolts instead of just 1 nut. Putting it back in without help sucks bad, but it can be done if you put down your purse and bleed on it. By the time you've had to resort to this method, there's usually a small crowd gathered and laughing at you so help should be easy to find.

You already have the hammer if you're using a pickle fork in the first place... so you should never have to use the pickle fork on good parts. A pickle fork always destroys the boot, and once the boot goes, the grease leaks out allowing dirt and water to get in it. This causes the joint to fail. Hondas don't come with grease fittings anywhere on their suspension parts to flush that junk out, so it's toast. Unless the boot is already torn, or the joint is already failing, never use a pickle fork.

 

2.5) Unbolt the upper control arm. It's worth trying 1 and 2 but I've had trouble with the BFH and jack methods in the past. Unbolting the upper is the next logical step IMHO.

 

always put some sort of grease on those axle splines or you'll be doing a lot of cursing later. My first axle removal had the axle slip out on the left side (piece of cake) and required me wailing on the axle end with a hammer like 40 times on the other side before it decided to budge. I now put a nice little glob of grease on that stuff.

 

This has been a great thread! I came upon it looking for just this information. I started the day set to change the alternator on an 84 Accord. It seems the only way to get it out and back in is to remove the left axle shaft and drop it out near the oil filter. The job isn't done yet as I need to borrow a more beefy impact wrench. This thread has been going on for years and I read most of it. I'd like to comment on the business of hitting the socket for the lower ball joint with a hammer. The same with tie rod ends and other things with tapered holes. It is much more productive if you use a heavier "back up" hammer opposite where you hit. The goal is to actually cause the hole to deflect slightly from round to oval causing the tapered hole to push the tapered stud out a little when it goes back to round. The stud doesn't have to move very much for it to become loose. A three lb. double jack is usually the perfect back up and a one lb. (16 oz.) or larger, the striker. On big truck tie rods I've used an eight lb. and a three lb. to get the job done. With the LBJ the back up hammer may need to be on the outside while you strike the socket on the back side. The back up hammer conserves the energy of the srike at the socket rather than the strike just moving things around. I hope this helps and saves somebody from wailing away with one hammer until the socket finally says OMG I give up already.