Thanks agent87, Is it just a few bolts holding the upper control arm from the shock tower?

 

No problem, yeah, it's just the 2 17mm bolts on top. The shock will obviously have to be removed to allow the upper control arm to swing away from the body because there's that metal bridge-like thing connecting the two upper anchor bolts.

Also, using this method, one end of the axle will have to go in the hub side at an angle because the steering knuckle will still be connected to the lower control arm. It's easiest to have a buddy hold the knuckle/upper control arm assembly to help you position it in a way that makes it easiest for you to insert the axles but it should otherwise be doable if you can position things well enough yourself.

If this is unclear at all, let me know but goodluck!

 

I just give it a firm whack on the side of the LCA. If it doesn't appear to do anything, that's why the pry bar is listed in the tools section. Usually one firm whack while prying down on the LCA pops it loose. Some people put a jack under the rotor and lift the suspension up a tad instead of using a pry bar. The effect is the same.

Don't beat on the threaded post that protrudes through the LCA because you can mushroom the tip, keeping you from putting the castle nut back on, and forcing you to replace the ball joint.

I didn't replace my ball joints because they were bad, I did it because the boots were torn (from someone else using a ball joint separator), and all the grease had leaked out.

 

I placed the jack under the threaded post that protrudes through the LCA and it collapsed the threads. I pumped the jack too much.

Where can I get a balljoint separator that works?

 

I followed all the instrucions and change both driveshafts in under 1 hour I was so proud of myself untill I was going to tighten the castle nut to the lower ball joint bolt but I couldn't because the stupid bolt keeps on spining . Is there a specific way to tighten the castle nut? or is the lower ball joint broken?Thanks for your help in advance..

 

All the civics past '92 don't use a castle nut. They use a locknut that you dent to lock it down. So that might be of some concern. Also, did you remember to put the big washer back on before tightening it down? You may have run out of threads... I guess that's possible... just checking in to see if maybe the axles are different...

 

Hello well maybe I didn't explain myself right my problem is the lower ball joint I want to tighten the castle nut but I can't because the LBJ bolt (the bolt that goes in the lower control arm) spins and there is no way I can hold the bolt from the other side with a cresent wrench.

 

OH... HAHAHAHA! Okay. Put a jack under the lower control arm and put some pressure on it. The hole for that bolt is tapered. Squish some pressure on it and it will hold the bolt still.

 

Ok finally I got my axels done but now I need to know what type of transmision fluid I should use.I have a 93 Honda Civic DX 1.5 Manual transmission..Oh by the way thank you for posting this thread ..

 

You're welcome.

You should use 2 quarts of Honda MTF (1.9 qts usually). If you don't have that handy, then 40w motor oil will get you by until you can get it. It's easy enough to change out later if you insist on running Honda MTF.

I've used motor oil for years, but there are some people that get nervous. AllData says to use it, and any oil/lube shop doesn't have Honda MTF sitting around on a shelf just for your car. I've used both and they act exactly the same when you shift.