DIY: 15 minute Axle Replacement
#21
You could try you local parts store and pickup an import size (small) pitman puller (about $10), I just used one to push the threaded side of the LBJ to loosen it and then it popped out as the above instructions.
#22
Oh, just another thought if you have a hard time with getting leverage with a breaker bar (and/or extension), not sure how safe this is but I just put a small floor jack under my breaker bar and let the hydralics do the grunting.
#23
Originally Posted by ari_one
Oh, just another thought if you have a hard time with getting leverage with a breaker bar (and/or extension), not sure how safe this is but I just put a small floor jack under my breaker bar and let the hydralics do the grunting.
If you run into a stubborn LBJ, then while your car is securely raised in the air, put the jack under the stud on the lower ball joint and jack it up. It will separate the joint easily. If the car starts to raise off the jackstands, then lower the jack back down until the car is secure again, and hit the side of the LBJ with a BFH. Hit it as hard as it takes. It should pop out easily.
#24
I have one question what is the proper way to re-insert the retaining spring when putting the new axle in? I got a rebuilt axle and a new one didn't come with it, so i suppose i'll get a new one, also does a new seal come with it and where can i get one?
#26
You don't have to. You could leak some, but usually it's just a tiny bit if you do. It's a good idea to change it whether you're MT or auto because neither one has any sort of filter... so you're certainly not hurting anything. It costs very little to service Honda transmissions. 2.1qts dry, 1.9qts servicing for manual D-series.
#27
Separating the ball joint on a Honda CV half shaft / axle assembly
I just finished replacing the driver side CV axle on my 1992 Honda Accord and discovered a great way to separate the ball joint without any special tools. I used a jack to pop out the ball joint bolt. First I put the castle nut back on the bottom of the bolt just a few turns so I wouldn't mess up the threads on the bolt. Then I put the jack right under the castle nut and jacked it up about 8 or more inches which greatly compressed the spring. I used the cheap scissor jack that came with the car. Then I banged the side of the lower arm where there is a flat spot for hitting it. This is at the point just under the ball joint. The steering wheel was turned all the way to the right so I had the most room for swinging the hammer. I banged on it hard for what seemed like a long time. I may have lowered the jack an inch or two during this process because I was afraid that too much spring tension was actually causing the bolt to bind. You may want to try starting at the max height of the jack and progressively lowering the jack during your banging. Finally the lower arm popped down. At that point I just removed the jack and took off the castle nut and the joint came apart easily. The ball joint bolt was practically welded into the lower arm as I would guess most are at this age but once the stiction was broken I could easily lift the rotor assembly right out of the lower arm. I also sprayed some WD40 all around the bolt 30 minutes before I tried all this. Hope this helps.
#28
By the way
Forgot to mention that I thought the DIY instructions by Jafro was the most informative post I've ever seen for replacing a half shaft. Just incredible. Footnote, the 92 accord uses a 36mm socket which I borrowed from my local Autozone along with a 2 foot breaker bar.
#30
Originally Posted by qwerl
Forgot to mention that I thought the DIY instructions by Jafro was the most informative post I've ever seen for replacing a half shaft. Just incredible. Footnote, the 92 accord uses a 36mm socket which I borrowed from my local Autozone along with a 2 foot breaker bar.
Thanks for the Accord info and the props.
Someone give this guy a thousand posts already.