DIY Cvic 6th Gen Skunk2 Camber Kit Install
03-06-2004 | 03:39 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 0
From: Lumberport, WV
DIY Cvic 6th Gen Skunk2 Camber Kit Install
I didn't see a DIY on this yet, so I figured I would take some pics when I was putting mine on so everyone would not make the same stupid mistakes as I did. The pics will be added sometime this week when I have some time.
Materials:
Skunk2 Front Camber Kit (comes with new upper a-arms and cotter pins for the nuts on the ball joints.)
Ball Joint Separator (looks like a big set of tuning forks)
17mm Socket
17mm Wrench
14mm wrench
10mm Wrench
1/2 Breaker Bar
BAH (Big ass hammer)
Allen Wreches (to adjust the camber kit)
Car Jack
2 Jack Stands
1 friend or the creepy neighbor next door that doesn't have anything to do.
First things first. This kit is extremely easy to install, but it would be very wise to have someone help you install it, things will go a lot easier, and you don't have to be Stretch Armstrong to get some of the bolts loose.
Step 1: Remove the positive and negative wires from the battery (this will give you room to remove one of the bolts.) Loosen the two nuts securing the battery holder, and take the battery out and set it off to the side.
Step 2: Loosen (not take off) the lugs for your front wheels. Once you have them loose, put a jack under the car and lift it up till you have at least 2 inches of clearance from the tires to the ground. Place jack stands under the two front tow hooks, and let the pressure off the jack (you will need it later, so make sure you have jack stands!)
Step 3: Once the jack stands are in place, take the wheel lugs the rest of the way off and remove your wheels and tires.
Step 4: Remove the 14mm bolt in the top of the front fork that holds your struts to your front control arm.
Step 5: Remove the 17mm bolt that connects the front fork to front control arm. You will need a 17mm socket for the on side and a 17mm wrench for the nut on the opposite side.
Step 6: Pull on the front fork so that it drops away from the strut. You may need to persuade it to come out with a hammer depending on how long your struts have been in there.
Step 7: Once the struts are free from the front fork, loosen the nuts that connect the struts to the body inside the engine bay. Have someone hold the struts so they just done fall down when both nuts are removed. Remove the strut from the suspension assembly and place it off to the side. WARNING!!! DO not remove the double nut on top of the strut that keeps spring under pressure, loosen the two nuts on that are placed on each side of the strut.
Step 8: You are finally to the point that you can start removing the bolts that connect the upper control arm to the frame. The nut will be inside the fenderwell, and the head of the bolt will be inside the engine compartment. You will need a 17mm socket for the nut, and a 14mm wrench for the head of the bolt. Remove the bolts on each side of the upper control arm, and the upper control arm should be free from the frame of the car.
Step 9: Remove the cotter pin from the nut that connects the upper arm to the damper fork and then loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench (a socket will work, but it is really hard to get it onto the nut).
Step 10: Take the ball joint separation tool and place it at the top of the damper fork right below the rubber of the ball joint. Tap the end of the ball joint separation tool until the upper control arm is free of the damper fork.
Step 11: WooHoo!! You can now put your new Skunk2 upper control arm ball joint into to the top of the damper fork, then add the nut, and tighten down. Make sure that the hole in the ball joint bolt is lined up with one of the notches in the nut so that you can insert the cotter pin through the hole in the bolt and then wrap the two loose ends of the cotter pin around the nut so that it will not come out.
Step 12: Place the upper control arm bushings back into the fenderwell where it will connect to the frame. Line up the holes with the bushings in the control arm, and then place the bolts through the frame in the engine compartment to inside the fenderwell. Add the nuts to the end of the bolts and tighten.
Step 13: Put the strut and springs back into the hole in the frame and place a nut on the end of both bolts so that the strut can hang without anyone holding it. (If you have a strut tower bar, put it on over the bolts and then put the nuts on top of the strut tower bar.
Step 14: Insert the bottom of the strut into the front fork, insert the bolt into the fork and tighten. You will need a 14mm socket. Make sure that the notch in the strut is down in the hole of the front fork so your strut wont twist under hard turning.
Step 15: Line up the bottom of the front fork with the bushings in the lower control arm, insert the bolt and tighten. You will need a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. You may need to use the jack to push up on the fork to get it into the proper place.
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
Step 17: You are ready to put your wheels and tires back onto the side that is finished, but you don't have to until the other side is done if you don't want to.
Just repeat the same steps on the other side, secure the battery back into the tray, hook the positive then negative wires back up, put the wheels and tires back on, raise the car enough to remove the jack stands, and viola! Your new Skunk2 camber kit is installed and ready to go.
Quick Note:
Some of the nuts may be rather hard to remove, so using a breaker bar or an impact wrench can be mighty helpful.
If anyone has any feedback or questions, feel free to reply and let me know!!
One last thing, I have to thank WestCoastStyle again for hooking me up with the parts, and some of the tools to do this. If you ever need parts, if you look him up, he will hook you up. (tacky I know).
Materials:
Skunk2 Front Camber Kit (comes with new upper a-arms and cotter pins for the nuts on the ball joints.)
Ball Joint Separator (looks like a big set of tuning forks)
17mm Socket
17mm Wrench
14mm wrench
10mm Wrench
1/2 Breaker Bar
BAH (Big ass hammer)
Allen Wreches (to adjust the camber kit)
Car Jack
2 Jack Stands
1 friend or the creepy neighbor next door that doesn't have anything to do.
First things first. This kit is extremely easy to install, but it would be very wise to have someone help you install it, things will go a lot easier, and you don't have to be Stretch Armstrong to get some of the bolts loose.
Step 1: Remove the positive and negative wires from the battery (this will give you room to remove one of the bolts.) Loosen the two nuts securing the battery holder, and take the battery out and set it off to the side.
Step 2: Loosen (not take off) the lugs for your front wheels. Once you have them loose, put a jack under the car and lift it up till you have at least 2 inches of clearance from the tires to the ground. Place jack stands under the two front tow hooks, and let the pressure off the jack (you will need it later, so make sure you have jack stands!)
Step 3: Once the jack stands are in place, take the wheel lugs the rest of the way off and remove your wheels and tires.
Step 4: Remove the 14mm bolt in the top of the front fork that holds your struts to your front control arm.
Step 5: Remove the 17mm bolt that connects the front fork to front control arm. You will need a 17mm socket for the on side and a 17mm wrench for the nut on the opposite side.
Step 6: Pull on the front fork so that it drops away from the strut. You may need to persuade it to come out with a hammer depending on how long your struts have been in there.
Step 7: Once the struts are free from the front fork, loosen the nuts that connect the struts to the body inside the engine bay. Have someone hold the struts so they just done fall down when both nuts are removed. Remove the strut from the suspension assembly and place it off to the side. WARNING!!! DO not remove the double nut on top of the strut that keeps spring under pressure, loosen the two nuts on that are placed on each side of the strut.
Step 8: You are finally to the point that you can start removing the bolts that connect the upper control arm to the frame. The nut will be inside the fenderwell, and the head of the bolt will be inside the engine compartment. You will need a 17mm socket for the nut, and a 14mm wrench for the head of the bolt. Remove the bolts on each side of the upper control arm, and the upper control arm should be free from the frame of the car.
Step 9: Remove the cotter pin from the nut that connects the upper arm to the damper fork and then loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench (a socket will work, but it is really hard to get it onto the nut).
Step 10: Take the ball joint separation tool and place it at the top of the damper fork right below the rubber of the ball joint. Tap the end of the ball joint separation tool until the upper control arm is free of the damper fork.
Step 11: WooHoo!! You can now put your new Skunk2 upper control arm ball joint into to the top of the damper fork, then add the nut, and tighten down. Make sure that the hole in the ball joint bolt is lined up with one of the notches in the nut so that you can insert the cotter pin through the hole in the bolt and then wrap the two loose ends of the cotter pin around the nut so that it will not come out.
Step 12: Place the upper control arm bushings back into the fenderwell where it will connect to the frame. Line up the holes with the bushings in the control arm, and then place the bolts through the frame in the engine compartment to inside the fenderwell. Add the nuts to the end of the bolts and tighten.
Step 13: Put the strut and springs back into the hole in the frame and place a nut on the end of both bolts so that the strut can hang without anyone holding it. (If you have a strut tower bar, put it on over the bolts and then put the nuts on top of the strut tower bar.
Step 14: Insert the bottom of the strut into the front fork, insert the bolt into the fork and tighten. You will need a 14mm socket. Make sure that the notch in the strut is down in the hole of the front fork so your strut wont twist under hard turning.
Step 15: Line up the bottom of the front fork with the bushings in the lower control arm, insert the bolt and tighten. You will need a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. You may need to use the jack to push up on the fork to get it into the proper place.
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
Step 17: You are ready to put your wheels and tires back onto the side that is finished, but you don't have to until the other side is done if you don't want to.
Just repeat the same steps on the other side, secure the battery back into the tray, hook the positive then negative wires back up, put the wheels and tires back on, raise the car enough to remove the jack stands, and viola! Your new Skunk2 camber kit is installed and ready to go.
Quick Note:
Some of the nuts may be rather hard to remove, so using a breaker bar or an impact wrench can be mighty helpful.
If anyone has any feedback or questions, feel free to reply and let me know!!
One last thing, I have to thank WestCoastStyle again for hooking me up with the parts, and some of the tools to do this. If you ever need parts, if you look him up, he will hook you up. (tacky I know).
Last edited by swaggs21; 07-31-2006 at 08:57 AM.
03-07-2004 | 02:21 PM
#5
Mr. Motorhead
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 0
From: middle of no-where
how did you know how to do this?
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
what were your guidelines? you use a t-square or what?
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
what were your guidelines? you use a t-square or what?
03-07-2004 | 04:04 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 0
From: Lumberport, WV
Originally Posted by bustah49
how did you know how to do this?
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
what were your guidelines? you use a t-square or what?
Step 16: Adjust the Skunk2 Upper Control arm to correct your wheel alignment. If you move it closer to the engine, you will bring the top of the wheel in, if you move it to the outside of the car, it will push the top of the tire out.
what were your guidelines? you use a t-square or what?
03-23-2004 | 04:06 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 0
From: Lumberport, WV
Originally Posted by kendan
do you have a rear camber kit? because I recently put on a rear kit on and it still bends in a bit and im really mad. But this diy is going to be real usefull tomorrow, thanks.
