HELP!!! Car won't start!!!!!!!
09-02-2003, 07:43 AM
#21
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Originally posted by Redlinerz
what pulley are yous talking about? The one that has the alternator belt and AC belt? Or the one that The timing belt goes around? I only know of 2 gear that have marks. The Cam Gear and the lower gear that the timing belt also goes around. I assume you are talking about the lower pulley that the timing belt goes around. Ima turn that to it's mark and the cam gear should be at all 3 marks right? If not i gotta losen the tensioner and rotate the cam gear to it's marks. I dont have to really remove any belts except the alternator belt right. This is what I think you guys are talking about. Let me know if I'm right or wrong.
what pulley are yous talking about? The one that has the alternator belt and AC belt? Or the one that The timing belt goes around? I only know of 2 gear that have marks. The Cam Gear and the lower gear that the timing belt also goes around. I assume you are talking about the lower pulley that the timing belt goes around. Ima turn that to it's mark and the cam gear should be at all 3 marks right? If not i gotta losen the tensioner and rotate the cam gear to it's marks. I dont have to really remove any belts except the alternator belt right. This is what I think you guys are talking about. Let me know if I'm right or wrong.
the lower pulley, the big honkin massive pulley with the crank bolt in it is your crank pulley. yes, rotate this till the red mark is 12 o clock, and matches the knick on your plastic timing belt cover. Yes, when you do this the cam gear should match up with all three marks, but further, when you bend down you should have confidence that the arms of it are EXACTLY level and the top arm of this gear points at EXACTLY 12am, this is crucial. mine was close, but not close enough, and like i say, one tooth off can be the difference between a normal engine and a piece of crap.
no you dont need to do anything with any other belts, i dont believe the altenator belt has to come off, you only have to get the plastic plug out the timing cover so you can loosen the tensioner.
09-02-2003, 06:11 PM
#23
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I checked the timing, it is fine. My battery is dead so I am charging it now.What should I try and do now? I have only 1 more thing I think it can be. When aput my key in the ignition and turn it to the second one (when the fuel pump turns on) the relay makes a clicking noise. When you hold it you can even feel it. It clicks when The fuel pump turns on and off. I know from a different engine swap I did this had happened too. But I had realized that the ground wasn't too tight on the engine harness so when I tightend it the realy stoped the clicking and the car turned on. Only thing with my car it is not like that. I checked the ground and it is grounded to the thermostat housing and is tight. I replaced the relay from a car that was running and it is still clicking. Could that be the problem? Let me know what yous think
09-02-2003, 09:10 PM
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One more thing. I was reading some online info about how to put a 92-95 D16z6 into a 88-91 civic and they all say something about using the 88-91 SI distributor, but they are not too clear if I can use the 92-95 one. Is it possible for me to use the 92-95 distributor? Or do I NEED to use the si one? Also I don't have the 2 prong sensor (next to the oil sensor) connected. Would that make the car not start? thanks
09-03-2003, 05:49 PM
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I turned the pulley like tou said and the cam gear lines up perfect. and I did the ignition timing. It still dont start. Does any one know why my main relay is clicking? Or if this swap is possible using the 93 distributor? Because the dis. has a wire for TDC(TOP DEAD CENTER) so maybe I need the 88-91 SI one. Anybody know what I mean?