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electrical problem cooling fan

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Old 05-30-2003, 02:03 PM
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crxb16er
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Default electrical problem cooling fan

my cooling fan wiring is messed up somewhere, i went out and bought a new cooling fan for the radiatator, hooked it up and i got nothing, checked the fuse nothing, jumped the relay got nothing, hooked the fan directly to the battery and the motor works just fine, so its gotta be the wiring in the harness going to the fan. instead of openning up everything and rewiring it all the way back im gonna just jump the connection somewhere else, so my question is "where is a good positive wire under the hood to jump my cooling fan too?, i want power only going thru it when the car is on, itd like to jump it after a fuse so that it doesnt short circuit nething if the wires ever get crossed?" so anyone know the best possible location for me to pull my positive connection from? TIA
Old 05-30-2003, 02:21 PM
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if there isnt an easy way to pull a connection than i can always rewire my fog light connection cuz that already has a 20amp toggle switch mounted to my dash, so i can easily swap that over until i figure out what im doing about my engine situation, cuz when i swap whatever in next time ill rewire everything again.
Old 05-31-2003, 08:07 AM
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come on now someone has to know more about a cars electrical system than i do???? heres a chance to prove urself.
Old 06-01-2003, 07:20 AM
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WhiteRice
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It could possibly be that your thermo switch went bad. It's kind of a biatch to get to. It's under the intake mani, next to your oil filter.

Mine took a crap on me, so instead of putting in a new one, I just wired a switch into my cabin so I can turn it on and off at my leisure.

If you pull of the boot around the thermoswitch, you'll see what wires I'm speaking of. Just run some wiring from there to a toggle switch...the switch will just complete the circuit. Hope this helps you out.
Old 06-01-2003, 12:54 PM
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FourthGenHatch
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If you made a jumper and just connected the 2 wires going into the thermosensor that should make it come on any time the car is on. Butt connectors hook up to them easy. So get 2 male but connectors and crimp a small wire between them and just hook them together, easy as hell to do.
Old 06-01-2003, 04:19 PM
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i dont think its the thermo sensor guys i think its a wiring issue, in the front harness. thats why i just want a positive wire to jump to reroute a new harness to the front nose of the car. instead of a toggle switch that i have to remember to shut off, which is what i rigged up in the mean time. if noone knows of a good one its not a big deal im gonna make new harness's when i pull my engine in a few weeks. might as well do it all at one time, now itsjust deciding what engine to use while the b16 is rebuilt.
Old 10-17-2003, 04:07 PM
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i dont know if that would be a good idea to have the fan on 24/7 because i heard its most efficienct when the head is at 210-220 degrees, and if the fan is alway son then it would cool it down more than that, which is why the fan comes on at certain times. and having a switch to turn it on and off would be a bitch too because you would have to know when and thats a PITA to have to keep doing that. thats just what i think?
Old 10-18-2003, 11:43 AM
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this thread is really old but i ended up putting in 2 new fans, and rigging them both up the the acc ignition wire, instead of the thermo switch, with my zc setup the car gets hot quick so its not a big deal, i did a coolant bypass on the TB to let it stay cool during normal operation because itd get so hot, seems to have fixed the problem quite nicely, i need to get a new double walled radiator eventually because im using the hf radiator still and ive got way too much after market crap on here that is heating it all up, not to mention the timing is advanced soo much it causes a bit of extra heat... if anyone has the same problems u can actually buy aftermarket thermo swiches at like pepboys for about 30-40 bucks where u can set the temp u want the fans to kick on




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