941crx

Well it's doing it again now with a code 10.. everytime something is checked out and either replaced or fixed it lasts about a week and something else, now I don't know why a code 10 would cause a no-start.

941crx

bump

come on any ideas?

btw code 10 is fine now.

VPUPPY

Check yoru igniter. It works along side with the coil and its also known to fail. But before you go through all this trouble, did you check for spark? What engine is this?

941crx

It's a D15B2 *i know yuck* and I'm getting compression and air/fuel but no spark as it currently stands, new plugs wires coil so that might be it, how do i go about checking that out?

941crx

Alright took off the distributor cap, pulled the rotor and it had black 'gunk' on it so I took some really fine sand paper too it cleaned it, did the same to all the electrical connections and it started up.

(I say gunk cause I dont know what it was looked like it was charcoled from fire or something)

What would this be coming from as I'd like to prevent this from happening again.

A-series

I'd replace the cap and rotor since there was "gunk" inside there, unless a good cleaning with a soft wire brush gets them looking good enough.

Sometimes corrosion builds up on the points under the cap and can lead to intermittent problems. Also make sure the wire connections on the coil and the ignitor are tight and on properly (not just held on by the rubber "boot" to the ignitor).
I've heard that using oem cap and rotor can actually be better for the life of your coil in the long run, whether it's materials used or design I don't know as the cap will look pretty much identical of course no matter the brand, and most rotors look alike. Maybe it leads to less build-up, I'll have to see next time I change.
I've only purchased aftermarket for both, oem-equivalents of course (not "high-performance" crap) and it's at least got to be better than using old worn out stuff.

941crx

Alright so it happened again, replaced the rotor, checked the wire connections etc, new coil cap, only thing not done is the ICM, new plugs and wires. Could the ICM be faulty, work one day and not the next? I know it's the original from the factory.

jamned

I can't answer your question about the ICM. Are you still not getting spark? If you're getting even spark in all the cylinders, I'd look elsewhere. If you aren't getting spark, I'd also check the battery for sufficient voltage with a multimeter. I'd also visually check the posts to make sure there isn't massive corrosion preventing your car from getting power. I would bet that these aren't the problems, but they could be.

90_crx_flaze

well i had a buddys car that was sorta actin up and i replaced his coil, and it was fine, but i used to have a dual point setup and believe me they are notorious for floodin out, if you replaced your coil and ur not getting spark check the voltage to the coil, and if you have voltage make sure ur dizzy rotor isnt messed up, if not make sure the carbon build on the cap is cleaned, u said u got a new cap, then try new wires, on my d16y8 when i was puttin it in my hatch it would fire and run a bit then id cut it off and it wouldnt start for shit i went through about 4 sets of plugs cuz i thought they were fouling really bad and not firing.

941crx

I can run my stereo no problem all night if I wanted I just don't want to run the battery down. I'm going to take the ICM into autozone after work today to determine if that's the issue, I hope that it is just to have the problem isolated and dealt with. If it's not the ICM I'm going to grab plug wires and see what happens, just wouldn't believe that wires would cause the engine not to fire.