ecu openions for 89 crx
06-18-2007, 07:42 PM
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ecu openions for 89 crx
I have an 89 crx with dual port fuel injection ( yes i still ave my original d15 
) and I have been trying to find a good stand-alone or piggy back system to get some more power, but I just dont know what to do plz help! I have nos on it to so I need to get my fuel system better tuned thanks, u guies are life savers
) and I have been trying to find a good stand-alone or piggy back system to get some more power, but I just dont know what to do plz help! I have nos on it to so I need to get my fuel system better tuned thanks, u guies are life savers
06-18-2007, 09:41 PM
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You must have a DX since you mention DPFI. You need to ask yourself some serious questions about your performance goals. What is your budget?
An AEM EMS will probably be your best option if you are staying with the motor you have, and they aren't cheap. Not only are they not cheap, it will be a waste of money for what little gains you might get. For the same amount of $$$ you should do something different, like convert to MPFI and get an Si motor. But again, depending on your goals and budget will determine what direction you should go.
For example...
I have an 89 CRX Si. I want something that will be reliable, improved engine response, light, tuneable, and a good power-to-weight ratio. I have discussed my goals with people I know that have years of personal experience in building race engines. What I've decided to do is build up another D16A6. The top end will have an upgraded valvetrain and a professional port job. The bottom end will have forged rods and pistons while keeping stock compression. I picked up a 90-91 PM6 ECU that I had chipped w/ a ZIF socket so I can have the fuel maps adjusted and burned onto the removeable chips.
Note: 88-89 PM6 ECU's cannot be chipped, in case you were curious.
Other than a stronger clutch, LSD, ignition upgrade, lighter flywheel, improved oil pump, custom exhaust and stronger head bolts...not much else will be done. It will be a good 'lil street car that I can AutoX and pass smog...and not have to deal w/ the headaches that come with getting a motor swap legalized.
I know most people think building up a D-series is not worth it, and swapping in a B-series is the only way to go. What the guys I know that have professional experience have shared with me is that swapping in a B-series, and maybe some bolt-ons, is the extent of these people's knowledge on achieving 'more power'. And while my project may cost a little more than a B18A or B18B swap I know that I'll have close to just as much power and be able to push the motor harder, without fear of motor failure.
An AEM EMS will probably be your best option if you are staying with the motor you have, and they aren't cheap. Not only are they not cheap, it will be a waste of money for what little gains you might get. For the same amount of $$$ you should do something different, like convert to MPFI and get an Si motor. But again, depending on your goals and budget will determine what direction you should go.
For example...
I have an 89 CRX Si. I want something that will be reliable, improved engine response, light, tuneable, and a good power-to-weight ratio. I have discussed my goals with people I know that have years of personal experience in building race engines. What I've decided to do is build up another D16A6. The top end will have an upgraded valvetrain and a professional port job. The bottom end will have forged rods and pistons while keeping stock compression. I picked up a 90-91 PM6 ECU that I had chipped w/ a ZIF socket so I can have the fuel maps adjusted and burned onto the removeable chips.
Note: 88-89 PM6 ECU's cannot be chipped, in case you were curious.
Other than a stronger clutch, LSD, ignition upgrade, lighter flywheel, improved oil pump, custom exhaust and stronger head bolts...not much else will be done. It will be a good 'lil street car that I can AutoX and pass smog...and not have to deal w/ the headaches that come with getting a motor swap legalized.
I know most people think building up a D-series is not worth it, and swapping in a B-series is the only way to go. What the guys I know that have professional experience have shared with me is that swapping in a B-series, and maybe some bolt-ons, is the extent of these people's knowledge on achieving 'more power'. And while my project may cost a little more than a B18A or B18B swap I know that I'll have close to just as much power and be able to push the motor harder, without fear of motor failure.
Last edited by PacificDude; 06-18-2007 at 09:46 PM.
06-19-2007, 12:25 AM
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seriously AEMS is not the best option for him.
IF you are not planning a full race vehicle, any AEMS, Autronic, PowerFC, and the likes are a waste of money. PERIOD. Unless you want to bling bling, and get it stolen because those are known high price items.
there's a lot of things you need to answer and tuning/ecu's shouldn't be the first thing to think about.
1. BUDGET
how much can you really spend?
2. USE
Daily Driver, auto-x,weekend warrior, full drag?
3. POWER GOAL
based on 1 & 2 how much power will it allow?
4. BRAKES
you are going to have to be able to stop with your power
5. SUSPENSION
Get that power to the ground!
6. MOTOR
D-series, B-series, H-series, K-series? budget and power goals allow?
7. TUNING
keep your motor alive, and get as much juiced out as you can
8. SEAT TIME
need to learn how your car feels, reacts to your driving style.
D-series are completely UNDERATED motors. I have seen some serious 300+ hp D's at 1/2 the price of B's with the same hp. remember a b-series swap will set you back $1.5-5k from the start. that's internal work on a d-series and/or a turbo kit. same hp or more hp than that B-series.
IF you are not planning a full race vehicle, any AEMS, Autronic, PowerFC, and the likes are a waste of money. PERIOD. Unless you want to bling bling, and get it stolen because those are known high price items.
there's a lot of things you need to answer and tuning/ecu's shouldn't be the first thing to think about.
1. BUDGET
how much can you really spend?
2. USE
Daily Driver, auto-x,weekend warrior, full drag?
3. POWER GOAL
based on 1 & 2 how much power will it allow?
4. BRAKES
you are going to have to be able to stop with your power
5. SUSPENSION
Get that power to the ground!
6. MOTOR
D-series, B-series, H-series, K-series? budget and power goals allow?
7. TUNING
keep your motor alive, and get as much juiced out as you can
8. SEAT TIME
need to learn how your car feels, reacts to your driving style.
D-series are completely UNDERATED motors. I have seen some serious 300+ hp D's at 1/2 the price of B's with the same hp. remember a b-series swap will set you back $1.5-5k from the start. that's internal work on a d-series and/or a turbo kit. same hp or more hp than that B-series.
