racerdave

Pull the valve cover, inspect everything, look at the springs, make sure they are not broken. Push in the LMA's and check to see if they stick.

Adjust the valves (when the motor is cold). And then update us.

(all of the things I just said are free if you can do them yourself)

So try that first.

RedlineBoyzCRX

Sticky LMA will make that sound, what head are you using? Wouldn't happen to be the B16a1 head would it? Because if so, LMA's are notorious for going bad in the B16a1 heads.
Also, once again, adjust your valves, or at least check you clearences.

90_crx_flaze

its a jdm b16a head i figured out what it was the rod was stretched out from high rpms and it was verly taping on the valve, no valve damage but the rod broke yesterday when i let it idle and took a little chunk out of the block, is this block still good?

Snoopy

i cant tell what part of the block that is. is that the bottom of the cylinder?

90_crx_flaze

yeah its at the very bottom where the rod broke, it was way below where the piston rings set.

judgeDredd

were you not using arp rod bolts?

90_crx_flaze

the bottom end wasnt messed with, the rod bolts were still torqued down to specs, i wasnt taking it to b16 redline either, only to the ls redline but where the rod hit on the cylinder wall it looks like its still okay i was just asking from someone who knows about rebuilding motors that have had rods snap on them.

Snoopy

if it wasnt the bolts that gave way, how did the rod break? was it a stock rod? i should've asked this to start with, what is your exact setup?

90_crx_flaze

stock pr4 bottom end with golden eagle vtec kit, arp head studs, stock pr3 head with Gsr cams, im guessin the block is still good, im tryna get some eagle rods, with arp rod bolts, and put in pr3 pistons and keep it low rpms til i can get the valve springs and cam gears i think that would be a pretty decent setup, it still has the ls 19tooth water pump and timing belt, plan on puttin in my pr3 22tooth water pump and use a gsr timing belt