Replacing rear trailing arm bushings
#22
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Originally Posted by HatchVX
it will also throw the toe out, which will kill tires faster than camber. IMO i would replace them with the ES bushings.
Energy Suspension
Prothane
You can get'em in red or black
Mine probably need replacing, too. Has anyone replaced theirs with either of these and are happy with them? Which one would be better than the other? Or are OEM bushings superior to these?
Last edited by PacificDude; 04-06-2006 at 06:42 AM.
#23
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Yea, ES = Energy Suspension... And they come in red or black... Most usually get the red cuz they "look cool" tho... But the black ones are actually better because they have some sort of self lubrication in the bushings...
I probably need to replace mine soon as well...
Kai, do u guys use the same method for lower ball joints? I recently replaced mine, and a friend and I just beat them out, and the new ones back in... Just hoping we didnt mess anything up like that...
I probably need to replace mine soon as well...
Kai, do u guys use the same method for lower ball joints? I recently replaced mine, and a friend and I just beat them out, and the new ones back in... Just hoping we didnt mess anything up like that...
Last edited by Exempt; 04-06-2006 at 02:40 PM.
#24
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Originally Posted by Exempt
Yea, ES = Energy Suspension... And they come in red or black... Most usually get the red cuz they "look cool" tho... But the black ones are actually better because they have some sort of self lubrication in the bushings...
I probably need to replace mine soon as well...
I probably need to replace mine soon as well...
#25
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Originally Posted by Exempt
Kai, do u guys use the same method for lower ball joints?
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Originally Posted by Exempt
Kai, do u guys use the same method for lower ball joints? I recently replaced mine, and a friend and I just beat them out, and the new ones back in... Just hoping we didnt mess anything up like that...
#27
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Originally Posted by PacificDude
The ES ones look easier to install. I could care less about the 'cool looking' red ones. I'd get the black ones because I don't plan on having red on my car when I'm done with it. As far as self-lubricating bushings, it may be graphite? I couldn't find that info from the company...so it may just be color selections. I'm gonna get'em. I know my passenger's side is bad so it's time to fix it.
#28
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Kai,
What's the difference between these two rear trailing arm bushings?
52385-sr3-000 ($39.03), I know this one will fit my '91 CRX Si, it's outer diameter is 3.170" exactly the same as what's installed now.
52385-s21-003 ($25.01)
I tried the hammer method of removing the rear trailing arm bushing. It didn't move at all (I guess, you need a real BFH). So, I pulled both rear trailing arms and will have the new bushings pressed in at an auto machine shop on Monday.
What's the difference between these two rear trailing arm bushings?
52385-sr3-000 ($39.03), I know this one will fit my '91 CRX Si, it's outer diameter is 3.170" exactly the same as what's installed now.
52385-s21-003 ($25.01)
I tried the hammer method of removing the rear trailing arm bushing. It didn't move at all (I guess, you need a real BFH). So, I pulled both rear trailing arms and will have the new bushings pressed in at an auto machine shop on Monday.
#29
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I finally got the new bushings pressed in, put the car back together, and aligned. A bunch of work. But, the car no longer has the twitchiness at highway speed and the backend always feels planted.
On to the next fix (replace the slightly leaky master cylinder; brakes fade slowly while stopped at a light).
On to the next fix (replace the slightly leaky master cylinder; brakes fade slowly while stopped at a light).
#30
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Originally Posted by Chris
On to the next fix (replace the slightly leaky master cylinder; brakes fade slowly while stopped at a light).
Yea, uh you might wanna get that fixed ASAP...