Kai

You don't hammer the metal bar in the center, you hammer the metal ring around the edge. When you buy the new bushings you will understand.

ChrisS

I'll probably rig something up with
-2 8" C-clamps
-a piece of 2x4
-a short piece of steel tubing that's slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing

I like to use steady pressure instead of hammer blows when it comes to doing press fits.

wagon89

I used a combination of an airhammer and a sawzall to remove mine The metal shell needs to stay in if using ES bushings. It took roughly two hours cleaning off the old rubber was more of a bitch than anything else.

ChrisS

info on RTA bushings
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html

The honda replacement part:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=52385-SR3-000

The honda service bulletin:
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x00-006e.pdf

Motor magazine howto replace article:
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/102005_08.pdf

Kai

Good read, but that's still an overcomplication of the problem. Walk into any dealership and you'll see the techs hammering them in and out.

ChrisS

Kai,

Is this what the honda dealerships do?

-make an alignment mark on the rear trailing arm (marking 6 o'clock position of the old bushing)

-hammer on the metal edge of the old bushing until it's flush with the surface (alternating sides so the bushing goes through without getting cockeyed/wedged) of the rear trailing arm then use a pin punch (still hitting the metal edge) to drive the bushing the rest of the way through

Use a marker to 10 to 12mm exposure (short side of the bushing's center pin toward the outside of the car) on the new bushing, align it with the 6 o'clock mark made on the rear trailing arm, and then tap it into place with the hammer.

Any tips would be helpful.

I went to the local honda dealership and was quoted $250 just for labor. I guess parts and tax would be another $120. ($90 DoItYourself or $370 dealer. There's a hard decision; the car's just a beater/commuter)

Thanks,
ChrisS

Kai

Pretty much.

Dealerships love doing it because it has the highest pay-per-time ratio. They charge about two and a half hours of labour for a half hour job. If you actually disassemble it and press it like your supposed to, it will take a couple hours, but hammering it out and back in is much faster and works just as well. Just remember to use plenty of lube.

HatchVX

im telling u right now, if u dont have a lift and a freind do try replacing the bushing with the ones from the dealer. The Older civic and integras outside circumfrence is smaller than the 92-00 civics. If u got a lift and a freind u will be good. Pull the 2 17 bolts out of the bushing, then take the 12mm that holds the e brake line, then the 14 that holds the toe adjuster in. Stick a piece of 4x4 in above the arm in b/t the body. Use a sharpie and mark when the donw arrow is on the arm, use a hammer and bang it from the inside out. Then take the new bushing, and use a grinder to bevel the edge of the bushing. (eaiser to put in then a square edge) Have a freind use a big prybar and hold the arm steady. Then from the outside in lightly tap the bushing to get it started all the around (very important), once u do that hit it along the edges evenly (ie top and bottom, left and right). this will take some time b/c of the slight size difference. Drive in it untill the outside edge is even with the face of the arm. Then put everything back in and take it to get aligned. BUt like i said the older civic and integras are a pain in the ass. But it can be done. Have fun.

RedlineBoyzCRX

What does a Bad trailer arm bushing do? Rough ride?

ChrisS

For my CRX (new shocks, all other bushings in good shape, tracks straight):
-a slight intermittant twitch to the right at highway speeds
-the back end feel slightly loose/bouncy at low speeds

(initially, I thought one of my shocks was blown. When I replaced them, they were all pretty weak.)

I ordered the new RTA bushings this morning.
(install and get alignment checked when they arrive)