sherwood

--yes and then you can get into exhaust and turbo manifolds and blah blah blah, it was a short list off the top of my head, like i said, i made up alot of it as i went along, arent clutch disks rated for torque and not horse? also any more agressive and you are basically losing any drivavbility, i hear they get annoying so i'm trying to be as non-conservative there as possible

--i personally would like to have a LS tranny with a 4.8 FDR, the gearing is shorter than that of the GSR in the lower range and then it tops off the same, so in effect you can still cruise at 3k on the tach at 60, but still have shorter gears on the wind up.

when i read building i think of a complete re-engineering, i assumed he was going to sleeve it already, at which point would it not even be cheaper to just bore out his current LS? i know you can boost the b20 sleeves, but if you are doing a complete rebuild why go half ass, just replace them

as for the c1 comment-- I honestly think that if he has a clean LS with low miles he could sell it and buy a higher mileage GSR for about the smae as he could sell his LS for-- as long as the exterior is clean he is going to replace most of the drivetrain that will of worn down anyway...

plus ontop of all of that the vtec head is going to cost him $$$ too, not to mention the ammount of extra money it might take to get it working, noticfe how i say MIGHT-- it's the extra steps involved that might make more headaches than it's worth.

dubcac

Yes, because horsepower is calculated from torque...torque is measured. But you're going to need a much higher rated clutch than that.

Putting in a shorter final drive shortens every gear. So cruising on the freeway, you'd be at a higher RPM. You can't magically throw in a short final drive and expect to have the same crusing RPM on the freeway.

Some people cant afford the downtime of having a block sleeved. Do you know how long it takes? Weeks to send it out, have it done, and get it back. Thats why you need a spare block.

Chassis mileage...bushings, other suspension components, etc. I don't know about you, but that's a lot more hassel than just swapping in a new motor...cause you're going to have to do that anyways if you build it.

I still fail to see your reasoning...headswaps involve no headache...pretty straightforward.

Provocateur

Anti-B20 bandwagon? The following is much less than the fools who drool over it like it is the best thing since sliced bread and then crack a sleeve with minor bolt-ons. Everytime I hear the incredibly cliche "there is no replacement for displacement", I want to puke and slit my wrists. Slap a turbo kit on a B16 and you will get some nice torque; slap a turbo kit on a B20 and get a cracked sleeve.

You want to know why the sleeves on a B20 suck? Here: http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

dubcac

I've seen that. I know all about the design. I've never seen anyone crack them with "minor bolt ons." I've seen them hold just as much power as a stock LS sleeve. Sure, there are going to be a few people that crack sleeves...that happens with any motor. The ones that cracked, bad tuning and too much heat. There's always going to be people that have things go wrong...it's the nature of the beast. But much more often than not, the stock sleeve is just fine for moderate boost. Slap a turbo kit on a B20 and get a cracked sleeve...seriously....that's a joke.

As cliche as the replacement for displacement quote is, it's true...like it or not...period. It's simple physics.

Provocateur

You aren't on H-T much are you? I see a cracked B20 sleeve thread pretty regularly on there. Some have minor bolt ons, CRVTEC, and boosted setups. It all just depends on how much luck you have. It is pretty much the same as revving a stock LS-vtec to 8k+. Some people do it all the time with no problems and others spin bearings and throw rods after a very short while.

I am not going to keep arguing this point. But to stay on subject with the thread, a turbo D will distroy both of those swaps in stock form, end of story.

Driverman5777

Would the B16 head be bad on my B18B?

sherwood

thats an LS/vtec

it can take it but the rod bolts werent designed for high revs so they may, or rather, will, eventually give out.

search.

twinring

the highest output N/A B series motors have b20 based geometry with (usually) B16a heads, the problem with B20s is the siamesed iron cylinders. A b20 has an ideal peak redline lower than that of any B16. think about it, the B20 came in the CRV, (and if you dont live in the continental US...) a plethora of other available vehicles including the Stepwagon, Capa, and the Orthia, all of which were multipurpose, and sometimes optional 4WD family, workhorse class vehicles which required torque and not hi RPM performance. The B16 was designed out of the box to be a high RPM motor, the B20 wasnt... but can be "adjusted" if you have the smarts, information, and wallet to make these adjustments come into reality. I wouldnt boost either of these motors, or while you are at it a combination of both... however, Ive seen a Dyno sheet of a mentor of mine. His motor was putting down 301hp to the wheels on a B20 B16a based hybrid N/A with equal digits of torque. thats true dedication, real knowledge, He's an old guy too...

Both of these motors (combined even beter) are excellent platforms to build upon- just mind the geometry and your right foot

sherwood

as for the LS with the hightened FDR-- i know it makes all the gears shorter, but the LS transmission is completely long geared.. 5th will be close to that of a gsr, but 1st will be shorter

this way the first 4 gears give a slightly better acceleration with the 5th giving nearly the same cruising RPM

Driverman5777

If I got ARP rod bolts, balanced crank, and higher compression pistons would the B16 B a good bet? What are the differences between that and the B18c1