b20 or b16
03-06-2006, 07:33 PM
#22
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if you do just find a block you will probly endup paying almost as much as the whole motor and theres no tellin what kind of condition it will be in your best bet is to buy one from www.hmotorsonline.com there probly the best place to go hands down.
03-06-2006, 07:55 PM
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if you plan on doing that save your money, get a c1 and then build it... or you could sell your LS find a GS-R for cheap with high miles and build that motor.
building ontp of the b20 is relativily pointless because you already have an LS, it would require a bore with new sleeves during your build to make your ls basically a b20.
building ontp of the b20 is relativily pointless because you already have an LS, it would require a bore with new sleeves during your build to make your ls basically a b20.
03-06-2006, 08:07 PM
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what are you planning to build out of a b20, melt it down into an alluminum statue and donate it to some frootie-tootie college as art?
cause if you are building a motor out of the b20 i'd look at the sleeves first, and if you are already resleeving why waste the 500 on another block?
cause if you are building a motor out of the b20 i'd look at the sleeves first, and if you are already resleeving why waste the 500 on another block?
03-06-2006, 08:24 PM
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As of now I want to do a CRV or LS/vtec, get compression to about 9:7 and then down the line think about boost. Would the B16 work ok. Dissadvantages/ advantages?
03-06-2006, 09:24 PM
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the b16 works but you'll lose alot of torque and wont gain as much from boosting as you qould from a similarly priced 1.8 or 2.0 setup.
if you start off with the GS-R engine you bascially get all the goodies, the nicer p72 (b18c1/GS-r) head, you get oil coolers (tho for forged pistons its not that big of a deal, they can take much higher temps) and you start out with everything you need for a high revving engine already.-- all you really need to worry about is building for boost vs having to worry about building up and putting a vtec head on a non vtec block and all that other fun stuff.
as for the 1.8 vs 2.0 argument, yes the 2.0 will make more power, but i'd have to say all in all it's better to just go turbo with a c block and vtec head. you seriously can drop just as much money into your turbo alone to make the gains of the .2 lost liters laughable. not to mention the lower ammount of mass on your rotating assembly.
anyone who wants to fight about this can, but they wont find much fight from me, honestly it's just like getting from point a to point b, there are a million ways to get there.
the wayi would go about it:
B18C1
turbo on 15PSI
pistons and sleeves to comp ratio of about 10:1
PnP job on the head
nice lighter flywheel, and a high-moderate clutch (make sure that it's rated to 300 crank at least)
new rods
high volume oil pump
LS transmission with a modified FDR
new axles
upgraded suspension and motor mounts.
FMIC
-- just a small list i took off the top of my head
if you start off with the GS-R engine you bascially get all the goodies, the nicer p72 (b18c1/GS-r) head, you get oil coolers (tho for forged pistons its not that big of a deal, they can take much higher temps) and you start out with everything you need for a high revving engine already.-- all you really need to worry about is building for boost vs having to worry about building up and putting a vtec head on a non vtec block and all that other fun stuff.
as for the 1.8 vs 2.0 argument, yes the 2.0 will make more power, but i'd have to say all in all it's better to just go turbo with a c block and vtec head. you seriously can drop just as much money into your turbo alone to make the gains of the .2 lost liters laughable. not to mention the lower ammount of mass on your rotating assembly.
anyone who wants to fight about this can, but they wont find much fight from me, honestly it's just like getting from point a to point b, there are a million ways to get there.
the wayi would go about it:
B18C1
turbo on 15PSI
pistons and sleeves to comp ratio of about 10:1
PnP job on the head
nice lighter flywheel, and a high-moderate clutch (make sure that it's rated to 300 crank at least)
new rods
high volume oil pump
LS transmission with a modified FDR
new axles
upgraded suspension and motor mounts.
FMIC
-- just a small list i took off the top of my head
03-06-2006, 10:32 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by sherwood
if you plan on doing that save your money, get a c1 and then build it... or you could sell your LS find a GS-R for cheap with high miles and build that motor.
building ontp of the b20 is relativily pointless because you already have an LS, it would require a bore with new sleeves during your build to make your ls basically a b20.
building ontp of the b20 is relativily pointless because you already have an LS, it would require a bore with new sleeves during your build to make your ls basically a b20.
Originally Posted by sherwood
what are you planning to build out of a b20, melt it down into an alluminum statue and donate it to some frootie-tootie college as art?
cause if you are building a motor out of the b20 i'd look at the sleeves first, and if you are already resleeving why waste the 500 on another block?
cause if you are building a motor out of the b20 i'd look at the sleeves first, and if you are already resleeving why waste the 500 on another block?
Originally Posted by sherwood
the b16 works but you'll lose alot of torque and wont gain as much from boosting as you qould from a similarly priced 1.8 or 2.0 setup.
if you start off with the GS-R engine you bascially get all the goodies, the nicer p72 (b18c1/GS-r) head, you get oil coolers (tho for forged pistons its not that big of a deal, they can take much higher temps) and you start out with everything you need for a high revving engine already.-- all you really need to worry about is building for boost vs having to worry about building up and putting a vtec head on a non vtec block and all that other fun stuff.
as for the 1.8 vs 2.0 argument, yes the 2.0 will make more power, but i'd have to say all in all it's better to just go turbo with a c block and vtec head. you seriously can drop just as much money into your turbo alone to make the gains of the .2 lost liters laughable. not to mention the lower ammount of mass on your rotating assembly.
anyone who wants to fight about this can, but they wont find much fight from me, honestly it's just like getting from point a to point b, there are a million ways to get there.
the wayi would go about it:
B18C1
turbo on 15PSI
pistons and sleeves to comp ratio of about 10:1
PnP job on the head
nice lighter flywheel, and a high-moderate clutch (make sure that it's rated to 300 crank at least)
new rods
high volume oil pump
LS transmission with a modified FDR
new axles
upgraded suspension and motor mounts.
FMIC
-- just a small list i took off the top of my head
if you start off with the GS-R engine you bascially get all the goodies, the nicer p72 (b18c1/GS-r) head, you get oil coolers (tho for forged pistons its not that big of a deal, they can take much higher temps) and you start out with everything you need for a high revving engine already.-- all you really need to worry about is building for boost vs having to worry about building up and putting a vtec head on a non vtec block and all that other fun stuff.
as for the 1.8 vs 2.0 argument, yes the 2.0 will make more power, but i'd have to say all in all it's better to just go turbo with a c block and vtec head. you seriously can drop just as much money into your turbo alone to make the gains of the .2 lost liters laughable. not to mention the lower ammount of mass on your rotating assembly.
anyone who wants to fight about this can, but they wont find much fight from me, honestly it's just like getting from point a to point b, there are a million ways to get there.
the wayi would go about it:
B18C1
turbo on 15PSI
pistons and sleeves to comp ratio of about 10:1
PnP job on the head
nice lighter flywheel, and a high-moderate clutch (make sure that it's rated to 300 crank at least)
new rods
high volume oil pump
LS transmission with a modified FDR
new axles
upgraded suspension and motor mounts.
FMIC
-- just a small list i took off the top of my head
Wow. 15psi and you only want a clutch rated to 300 bhp? Better go higher than that bud. He will be fine with an OEM VTEC oil pump. Shorter gearing than the LS would be better. You forgot rods and rotating assembly balancing, as well as valvetrain, turbo size, turbo manifold, fuel and tuning system, as well as an LSD while he's in the tranny modifying the final drive.
Putting a vtec head on a nonvtec block is perfectly reliable...especially if it's built.
The .2L is a noticeable difference in torque, guaranteed. There's no replacement for displacement. With the same stuff on both motors, the 2.0 will always beat the 1.8...period. Just like if you can keep the power to the ground, a shorter geared transmission will always beat the longer geared in acceleration. As for the extra mass on the rotating assembly...sure, the pistons might weigh SLIGHTLY more, but it wouldn't make any difference.
Dawt.