best motor for a 90 crx
12-25-2005, 11:41 PM
#1
crxbiggie
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best motor for a 90 crx
hi im just tryin to figure out a few things im a newb whatever i dont care but what engine comes stock in a 90 crx and for best 1/4mi time performance without going insane on proce what is the best engine and price could anyone help thanks id appreciate it
12-26-2005, 12:18 AM
#2
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The engine is only part of a fast car.
-lighten the car
-close ratio transmission (si, siR), final drive ratio
-getting actual horse power to the wheels (limited slip differential, stage 1 or stage 2 clutch and pressure plate)
-skill of the driver (maintaining traction while accellerating; too much power applied too fast and the wheels spin which looses time)
-make sure to build up the suspension and brakes so they can handle a much more powerful engine
-lighten the car
-close ratio transmission (si, siR), final drive ratio
-getting actual horse power to the wheels (limited slip differential, stage 1 or stage 2 clutch and pressure plate)
-skill of the driver (maintaining traction while accellerating; too much power applied too fast and the wheels spin which looses time)
-make sure to build up the suspension and brakes so they can handle a much more powerful engine
01-06-2006, 07:18 PM
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wanna run
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D16a6=cheap, reliable
ZC=better feel, quicker, still pretty cheap, nice swap
B16a=Pulls a little better, more power, tons of easy access mods, getting expensive
B16a1...not worth the obd work involved compared to its Jap brother^^
B18a=affordable, nice for FI
B18c=hotness, expensive (c5 very expensive) also getting into OBD work tons of mods available.
H22=hotness for 1/4 mile only (dont expect to daily drive, HEAVY motor, people will argue this but BS), expensive
LSVT=dont do without swap experience, relatively affordable, ok reliable
K series= not worth it at all, its goofy to do on this gen
theres the short version
heres another short:
you get what you pay for (just research so you dont pay for crap)
edit: yeah, get a F'in LSD when you buy your setup, itll save you work and cash in the long run.
ZC=better feel, quicker, still pretty cheap, nice swap
B16a=Pulls a little better, more power, tons of easy access mods, getting expensive
B16a1...not worth the obd work involved compared to its Jap brother^^
B18a=affordable, nice for FI
B18c=hotness, expensive (c5 very expensive) also getting into OBD work tons of mods available.
H22=hotness for 1/4 mile only (dont expect to daily drive, HEAVY motor, people will argue this but BS), expensive
LSVT=dont do without swap experience, relatively affordable, ok reliable
K series= not worth it at all, its goofy to do on this gen
theres the short version
heres another short:
you get what you pay for (just research so you dont pay for crap)
edit: yeah, get a F'in LSD when you buy your setup, itll save you work and cash in the long run.
01-07-2006, 09:30 AM
#10
wanna run
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Originally Posted by 97civicEXVTEC
h22a is not that much heavier then the b18c1 for the last time..
