accordcivic

First, a question: the CV boot (CV shaft) is also the axle boot, right?

Anyway, the boots that fit the axle and the wheels seem to be worn on my Civic. After extensive research and reading (here and elsewhere), I figure that I need to replace them but not the axle (?). One boot on the driver's side is cracked or ripped. I just replaced both boots and the axle is from a junkyard last winter. It didn't last long?!? The car creaks at the site (?) sometimes when I turn or turn the wheels. Grease can be seen coming down from the boot and end of the axle shaft. I'm still driving the car but I know I need to replace the boot at least. If I did the replacement tomorrow or during the week, is it still possible the axle will still be usuable? I am not sure at what point, the axle needs to be replaced. Is there some visual check that confirms whether or not you can keep using it? Other than it being broken or what not. I know I want to avoid the point when the car collapses from a broken axle or slips out entirely.

Or should I lean on the safe side and get another axle from a junkyard? I probably need to replace both boots but a visual check on the drivers' side shows a fairly large rip in the boot.

If I'm not mistaken, I read here that you really can't do any preventative maintenance to avoid the boot ripping except, perhaps, grease the area after installation. With Honda axles and CV axle boots, you don't need to insert extra grease, right?

Thanks for all replies.

Tankard

If the joint is already popping, the whole axle needs to be replaced. If the boot just broke and the axle is not popping or making any noise, you can get by with simply replacing the boot and repacking with greese.

Kai

Here's how I do it:
-If the axle has a boot that is torn open or the joint makes any noise, buy a reman.
-If the boots are cracking but have not yet opened, and there is no noise, replace just the boots.

Every time you replace the boots, you need to repack them with the packet of grease supplied with the OEM boot kit.

drkslayer

your pulling the axles either way... so just replace em... i can get em for like 40 bucks

Kai

I used to think that too, however, if the OEM axle is in good condition with cracking boots I'd rather replace just the boots.

If any boot is torn open though, replace it with a reman immediately.

accordcivic

How would you assess the axle? The boot is ripped and a mechanic who looked briefly at the condition, wiggled the wheel and there was a lot of play. He told me to replace the ball joint(s) right away and said I ought to replace the axle as well. A remanufactured axle (on the shelf) at a nearby wreckers costs 60 bucks. Is that a decent price? I'll probably just buy the right-side one and replace the passenger side first. It's really bad, much worse than the driver's side.

My problem is getting it done when I work during the week. I wanted to buy a ball joint kit or tool, also. My friend helped me last time and we had so much trouble even though we rented a kit. It was a lousy set, though and nothing near as good as the Pitman Puller, ball joint puller or the OTC kits out there.

Tankard

To separate the lower ball joint, i always whack it with a large mallot or the back end of a heavy axe and it separates with the impact. Be carefull not to hit the grease boot or it may break. This is, of course, after you take the bolt off.

accordcivic

That's pretty much what we did before. I really prefer not to go through that again. I advise anyone who decides to try it that way to use a ball peen hammer. You will still be whacking it for a while but that kind of hammer helps.

I think the OTC 7249 and 7996 ball joint sets might be worth it. Has anyone tried using these sets to separate/replace your ball joints?

In the Civic Helms manual, a ball joint puller is used but the entire knuckle is removed and the parts are placed in a vise! Um, I don't want to take off the entire knuckle as I didn't have to before. The ball joint set should do the trick but it's expensive and a used 7249 set on ebay usually attracts a lot of bidders...

My guess is that since the ball joints are press fit, the force of hitting it with a hammer is not the same as those who use jacks as vises or ball joint pullers and extractors.