Main Relay Q.
11-17-2005, 07:27 PM
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Main Relay Q.
Okay, so, my CRX has been running fine, but like 3 days ago it got cold here (like freezing and below) and ever since then my CRX hasn't ran. I finally had time to check everything out today, and my CEL is coming on, but I'm not too sure how to read the code that it's throwing. Like when do I start to look at the light to see how many times it blinks?
What I think it is, though, is my main relay (like always). This time, though, when I turn the car over, all I hear is a really constant and fast clicking coming from the main relay. I can KIND OF feel it vibrate. I am POSITIVE the sound is coming from it. I am going to say that it's safe to assume that this is the problem?
What I think it is, though, is my main relay (like always). This time, though, when I turn the car over, all I hear is a really constant and fast clicking coming from the main relay. I can KIND OF feel it vibrate. I am POSITIVE the sound is coming from it. I am going to say that it's safe to assume that this is the problem?
11-18-2005, 03:13 AM
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I don't think that's the problem. All the main relay problems i have read about are only when it's hot outside. To check your codes, turn the key to the on position(the position right before u turn to start the car), look at your ecu, and u should see it blink 1 time very fast, that's a hello blink to indicate the ecu is on. Then, after a sec or two, the led will continue to blink if there is a problem. Count the blinks, then post them here if u don't know what the code indicates.
11-18-2005, 11:49 AM
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So i took off the main relay and looked at it, nothing weird, and I put it back on, and it's not clicking anymore, but the car still won't start. When I go to see how many times the ECU is blinking, it doesn't blink, it just stays lit constantly.
11-18-2005, 12:10 PM
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That is a CODE 1 and generally says the ECU has failed. I am assuming that the car is stock.
Also, the MAIN relay should NEVER have any constant clicking sound. It is a latching device that is also switched by a timing circuit that controls the priming of the fuel pump. Take a look at the Check light on the dash and see if it goes off after `2 seconds from the time you turn the key to the ON position. If by some chance you have an alarm system in the car-disable it completely for now-they can fail too. The MAIN relay failure we talk about deals with the solder joints on the connector circuit board and should have little to do with this particular problem.
Check ALL of your grounds and that the battery has 12.7 volts across the terminals with everything OFF. Charging voltage is 14.1-14.4, btw.
Also, the MAIN relay should NEVER have any constant clicking sound. It is a latching device that is also switched by a timing circuit that controls the priming of the fuel pump. Take a look at the Check light on the dash and see if it goes off after `2 seconds from the time you turn the key to the ON position. If by some chance you have an alarm system in the car-disable it completely for now-they can fail too. The MAIN relay failure we talk about deals with the solder joints on the connector circuit board and should have little to do with this particular problem.
Check ALL of your grounds and that the battery has 12.7 volts across the terminals with everything OFF. Charging voltage is 14.1-14.4, btw.