My VTEC Won't come on
11-15-2005, 05:14 AM
#11
EG6
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Originally Posted by Däs Schmoo
If the vtec solenoid were bad, it would be throwing codes for that too. Just fix the CEL and stop trying to skirt around the problem...it isn't a good thing to be driving the car around with a faulty O2 sensor and IACV. Fix the CEL and I'll bet that your gas mileage will go up and your car will feel a lot more powerful.
11-15-2005, 09:38 AM
#12
2 tone Rex
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Mostly the idle... Depending on how hot the coolant is running thru the IACV is what determines how it adjusts your idle..
As for the O2, get a header that has a bung, or have one welded on... There is a trick somewhere on the net that shows how to fool the ECU into ignoring it, but I dont reccomend doing it.. .
As for the O2, get a header that has a bung, or have one welded on... There is a trick somewhere on the net that shows how to fool the ECU into ignoring it, but I dont reccomend doing it.. .
11-15-2005, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RedlineBoyzCRX
and now my VTEC is kicking in, but it is when I rev it, I haven't drivin' it yet.
11-17-2005, 05:11 AM
#14
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When I rev it up it runs fine, and i can hear it hit VTEC and I se my VTEC light come on. But when I drive it for a lil while, sometimes the light will kick on, but I wont hear the loudness of VTEC. Also, sometimes the VTEC wont kick in at all. Like my VTEC light wont come on, and then it like acts shitty at 6000. Also I never had a O2 sensor, if I get on welded into my header, will my car run better? Faster? Stronger?
11-20-2005, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RedlineBoyzCRX
When I rev it up it runs fine, and i can hear it hit VTEC and I se my VTEC light come on. But when I drive it for a lil while, sometimes the light will kick on, but I wont hear the loudness of VTEC. Also, sometimes the VTEC wont kick in at all. Like my VTEC light wont come on, and then it like acts shitty at 6000. Also I never had a O2 sensor, if I get on welded into my header, will my car run better? Faster? Stronger?
11-20-2005, 04:03 PM
#16
The deer had to die!
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in order for a VTEC motor to switchover it has to:
1) have proper oil pressure
2) be at operating temperature
3) be in motion above a certain speed limit (hence why it doesn't switchover sitting still)
1) have proper oil pressure
2) be at operating temperature
3) be in motion above a certain speed limit (hence why it doesn't switchover sitting still)
11-20-2005, 11:47 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by RedlineBoyzCRX
When I rev it up it runs fine, and i can hear it hit VTEC and I se my VTEC light come on. But when I drive it for a lil while, sometimes the light will kick on, but I wont hear the loudness of VTEC. Also, sometimes the VTEC wont kick in at all. Like my VTEC light wont come on, and then it like acts shitty at 6000. Also I never had a O2 sensor, if I get on welded into my header, will my car run better? Faster? Stronger?
11-21-2005, 04:10 AM
#18
EG6
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Originally Posted by mula
this is what you should do.. make sure your wires and or water temp sensor are good and then jump the o2 sensor and then reset the ecu.. that should take care of all your problems.. it did for me anyways
Originally Posted by LT
in order for a VTEC motor to switchover it has to:
1) have proper oil pressure
2) be at operating temperature
3) be in motion above a certain speed limit (hence why it doesn't switchover sitting still)
1) have proper oil pressure
2) be at operating temperature
3) be in motion above a certain speed limit (hence why it doesn't switchover sitting still)
11-21-2005, 05:45 AM
#19
The deer had to die!
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yea your light will still come on, because you probably have it wire to the oil pressure switch which still sends signal, but you wont have cam switchover. and if you have a gsr motor, the secondaries won't open either.
11-23-2005, 07:54 PM
#20
driver
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My VTEC works with a CEL.
I've been getting O2 and knock from time to time, usually when coasting down a long hill in gear. I know the O2's are good because I just replaced them and it shouldn't be knocking because I run good gas in it, I just flip the ignition on and off quick and it goes away. Maybe my really restrictive exhaust could be messing with how it runs?
I've been getting O2 and knock from time to time, usually when coasting down a long hill in gear. I know the O2's are good because I just replaced them and it shouldn't be knocking because I run good gas in it, I just flip the ignition on and off quick and it goes away. Maybe my really restrictive exhaust could be messing with how it runs?