spamos

so , i didnt buy the fuel pump, as my car is just sitting on the side of the road im sick of putting money into it. if anyone in the northern NC or southern VA needs a 90 civic 1.5 for parts please let me know, will sell for price of distributor($350), has new starter, alternator, dist.(obviously), new clutch, timing belt, cv axles, recent valve adjustment, AEM cold air intake(this car is in NO WAY a racer, nor is it fast by any measure, intake was installed only to improve low-end torque as engine is extremely underpowered), has AC, power everything, optima red-top batt., other than the no-start it ran perfectly(this is NOT an exaggeration, it really ran perfectly) plese reply if interested or email me at sleepingtuner@hotmail.com, thank you

v8guy

If I didn't have so much on my plate right now, I'd be interested.

m735is

Are you kidding? Don't be so hasty. It's probably something stupid and obvious-I've done that many times.
What have you tested so far?
You said you were getting fuel, so would you second guess and almost buy a fuel pump?
You may be getting spark? How are you testing for it?
Other things to check but not buy (unless you're positive):
ECU
Wires
Relays
Alt
Battery



Do you have a repair manual? Start with a systematic approach and take you're time.
Also get someone else involved-?? Good luck.

spamos

yeah, uh about the fuel pump, i realized how much of an idiot i was as soon as i posted the message, "cough", my bad, but on a lighter note, ive discovered the problem!! i took off the valve and timing covers and had a friend try the engine, i saw that the cam gear was turning yet the cam shaft was not, upon further inspection i found the cam bolt completely loose, after much tightening we tried the engine again, still no cam shaft, i was scared but i removed the timing belt (thinking its already turned independently from the cam shaft so my timing was screwed regardless) and the cam gear, as i pulled the gear a tonne of metal chunks and shavings came with it, after consulting my repair manual i am now in need of a woodruff key which i will procure from my local junkyard, after that its just a simple() matter of correcting my timing, any pointers on how to do this would be greatly appreciated as i do not have a timing light nor would i know how to use it (most of my reapair manual is completely unreadable due to an unfortunate bevarage related incident), as for how we tested for spark, the only tool we had was a socket wrench so my friend wrapped his hand in a sock and stuck the wrench into the end of the wire and held it next to the nearest ground also any ideas on how to put my timing belt back on would help also...

IrishBrewer

The timing light is for checking ignition timing. What you need to do is get your valve/cylinder timing right via proper reinstallation of the timing belt. If you have a FSM or a haynes manual on the vehilce, you should be able to go through the install/retension procedure outlined therein. The woodruf key makes the cam gear align properly on the camshaft and there should be marks on the cam gear that align with marks on the engine block (see the manual). As long as your valves/cylinders didn't get screwed up when the key self destructed, you should be ok.

Since you've been messing with the distributor, there is a good chance that you will also have to check the ignition timing. Unless it's way off, you should still be able to start the car and you can roughly adjust it via small adjustments during warm idle. Just rotate it slightly to get the smoothest sounding idle. Of course a timing light would be the best tool for adjusting the ignition timing - again, see the manual for the procedure.

IluvJae

:yay: good to see a happy ending.

m735is

Hpoefully no valves were hit for that happy ending. Since you saved the fuel pump money buy a water pump and install it together with the new Timing belt so you don't have to take it apart again soon. You should get a new tensioner too but I have 285,000 on mine , knock on wood.

spamos

bouyakasha!! folks!! i've really discovered the poroblem this time sorry bout late response, i've lost my connection. went to work on car, set cylinder to TDC, UNSIEZED my cam-shaft(with the help of mad amounts of oil and the starter), and got one cylinder to fire, apparently theres an intake tdc and an exhaust tdc, i got em backards im off tomorrow to work on the bitch, im either fixin 'er or throwin myself to the wills of route seventeen, (you shoulda bought it up while you had the chance, i will fix my baby!)....ps, as far as i know, honda valves, D15B2-H23AS, are non-intrusive, meaning they do not come close enough to the piston-head to bend in emergency lack-of-timing situations, i only know this through research, if this is false, through personal experience, please inform me cause i might be misinformed

m735is

I got a D15B7 that was running really rough- I was told it had a blown motor, which I had an extra. When I took the motor out and took off the head two valves were missing chunks out of the edge of the valve, no wonder it ran crappy. I thought it was because of a timing belt issue and the valves hit the piston, but because they broke where they did, it still turned and ran. Maybe something else broke the valves ??? Or is that what a burnt valve is? Anyway, next time time you get frustrated just park it out front and I'll get it.