skunk 2 intake manifold
08-25-2004, 03:21 PM
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skunk 2 intake manifold
my buddy has a skunk 2 intake manifold he wants to put on his vx motor. someone told him it will slow him down because it will suck in to much air. is this true? i know it might lean it out a little. i put a si intake on my motor and it helped, the skunk 2 cant be but like a half an inch bigger. any information will be of great help. thanks.
08-25-2004, 06:36 PM
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If memory serves, the VX head has the small sized, round ports. The skunk manifold has the large size oval ports, that will kill the airflow into the head. That's bad.
Why does he want to put such an expensive manifold on such a crappy engine, anyway? He should save for a D16Z6 or B-series swap... something worth the money.
Why does he want to put such an expensive manifold on such a crappy engine, anyway? He should save for a D16Z6 or B-series swap... something worth the money.
08-26-2004, 10:52 AM
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i agree. that is what i am in the process of doing. but i think i am going to build a b16 alluminum block. it is going to be a while. does anyone have any specs for a hyped up b16a? and thanks for the info.
08-26-2004, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 89crxinprogress
i am going to build a b16 alluminum block.
"hyped up" B16A's... aren't they all? :chuckles:
There is way to much you can do with a B16A go give a "normal" spec profile, But these are the basics:
1) Higher compression pistons (~11.0:1)
2) More aggressive cams and stronger valvetrain (See Crower and Toda specs for examples)
3) A decent port and polish.
4) Lots of tuning.
If you want to have some real fun, along comes the stroker kits, deck plates, sleeves, etc.
08-26-2004, 02:46 PM
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i was thinking extreme... sleeves, bored over if possible to a 2.2 stroker kit the works. is there a difference in weight with a dart alluminum block and a stock b16 block?
08-26-2004, 04:06 PM
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The dart block is a waste of money unless you intend to build a 500+ horsepower turbo beast out of it. The dart block actually is heavier too, thanks to the closed deck and extra reinforcing webbing.
At that, if you intend to bore and stroke to a 2.2, that can't be done on a short B block like the B16A, without a deck plate. Start with a tall B18A/B/C block for that.
At that, if you intend to bore and stroke to a 2.2, that can't be done on a short B block like the B16A, without a deck plate. Start with a tall B18A/B/C block for that.
08-26-2004, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kai
Every engine Honda has made for a long time has had an aluminum block. All B's, D's, H's, etc.
"hyped up" B16A's... aren't they all? :chuckles:
There is way to much you can do with a B16A go give a "normal" spec profile, But these are the basics:
1) Higher compression pistons (~11.0:1)
2) More aggressive cams and stronger valvetrain (See Crower and Toda specs for examples)
3) A decent port and polish.
4) Lots of tuning.
If you want to have some real fun, along comes the stroker kits, deck plates, sleeves, etc.
"hyped up" B16A's... aren't they all? :chuckles:
There is way to much you can do with a B16A go give a "normal" spec profile, But these are the basics:
1) Higher compression pistons (~11.0:1)
2) More aggressive cams and stronger valvetrain (See Crower and Toda specs for examples)
3) A decent port and polish.
4) Lots of tuning.
If you want to have some real fun, along comes the stroker kits, deck plates, sleeves, etc.
08-27-2004, 04:23 AM
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my intentions were to build a b16 n/a with about 400 hp if possible then if i must, a supercharger, not a big fan of the turbos. so is a dart block still a bad idea. or would it just be better to buy stock b16 and gut it. i am going to be building an entire engine.