91 crx wont start. Powers up but dont crank? any clue?
06-19-2004, 01:12 PM
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91 crx wont start. Powers up but dont crank? any clue?
hi,
i have a 91 crx hf and one day i came home from out of town and parked the car at freinds house.. I went to start it like 2 hours later and it wouldnt start. It is manual transmission and radio would power up so i knew battery was good. I thought it must be starter. so i pushed it and than tryed to start it and it did. I ran it all the way to my house. THan i attempted to start it again and same thing. radio powered up but it wouldnt start. it wouldnt do anything when i turned the key. I replaced starter thinking that was it and it still wont start. Alternator has been replaced like 2 months ago and battery was tested and was good. Fuel filter was changed out like 2 months ago as well as spark plugs, airfilter, oil and filter. I checked fuses and all good. What do you guys think? Please leave opinions. thanks
i have a 91 crx hf and one day i came home from out of town and parked the car at freinds house.. I went to start it like 2 hours later and it wouldnt start. It is manual transmission and radio would power up so i knew battery was good. I thought it must be starter. so i pushed it and than tryed to start it and it did. I ran it all the way to my house. THan i attempted to start it again and same thing. radio powered up but it wouldnt start. it wouldnt do anything when i turned the key. I replaced starter thinking that was it and it still wont start. Alternator has been replaced like 2 months ago and battery was tested and was good. Fuel filter was changed out like 2 months ago as well as spark plugs, airfilter, oil and filter. I checked fuses and all good. What do you guys think? Please leave opinions. thanks
06-19-2004, 02:43 PM
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Try your distributor and check the spark again.. Check the fuel lines too. Your fuel might be getting clogged up or something. Just some suggestions. Good luck.
06-19-2004, 08:20 PM
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If you push-started it and it ran then that means something is wrong in the starting circuit. Trace back the circuit from the starter checking for proper voltage. I don't know if Hondas have external starter solenoids like Fords do. Sometimes they go bad. Also your ignition switch may have gone bad, not the key part but the actual switch that the lock cylinder operates. Another possibility is that the safety switch on the clutch pedal has gone bad. Start at the starter and work your way back through the circuit until you find out what is wrong.
06-20-2004, 10:10 AM
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solonoid is on starter and starter was new from auto zone. Ignition switch replaced and same ole thing. not the key switch but the ignition wiring like you suggested v8guy. ANy other suggestion? let me know.. Also where is the safety switch on clutch located?
06-20-2004, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by honda1998civic
solonoid is on starter and starter was new from auto zone. Ignition switch replaced and same ole thing. not the key switch but the ignition wiring like you suggested v8guy. ANy other suggestion? let me know.. Also where is the safety switch on clutch located?
Good luck
06-20-2004, 08:51 PM
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06-20-2004, 09:17 PM
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check the battery lead from the battery to the starter(replace).mine was not bad but was not on tight,also use a volt meter to check the currents,the selinoid on mystarter was loose and made my crx not start just like yours(replaced starer.) i also had a leek draining the battery from the door locks ? so i just unhooked them biches.no more beeps thank god! but i dont know how to stop it from blinking the seat belts light? that is.any help would be cool. thx 
if you turn the key and it just ticks that is the problem the lead from the battery to the starter im thinking good luck....
if you turn the key and it just ticks that is the problem the lead from the battery to the starter im thinking good luck....
06-21-2004, 03:02 PM
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I dont have anything to test voltage. would i be able to take it to auto parts store and get the correct tests that i need? i am going to look for clutch safety switch if i cant find it im going to go buy some vasaline at wal-mart before i go to mechanic.
06-21-2004, 05:06 PM
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You could probably get a digital multi-meter fairly inexpensively at Radio Shack. Auto parts place might have one as well. If you want to go super ghetto cheap you can simply take a 12v automotive light bulb and duct tape two wires to it, one to the side of the bulb for the ground and the other to the bottom terminal for the positive lead. Actually soldering the wires on makes it a lot more reliable in case your duct tape comes loose. This was how I made my first test light when I was like 16. I still have it somewhere, and it still works. This won't tell you exact voltage, but if the bulb glows you have juice and if it seems particularly dim you may have a bad connection someplace creating too much resistance in the circuit. I'll be gone for a few days. Hope when I come back you will have your problem.
Here's where you start.
Check for 12v at starter solenoid, the big fat wire.
Next check the trigger wire for the solenoid. This is the one that energizes the solenoid when it gets an electrical signal from the starter switch. To do this you will have to find out which terminal is the trigger. It will be the one that does NOT have 12v when the key is off. When the key is turned to the crank engine position, this terminal should be energized. The best way to do this is have a buddy, family member, or well trained pet turn the key while you check for voltage with the test light.
Oh, maybe I should add how to use a test light. The positive wire (doesn't matter on a light bulb which one it is) gets held against the terminal or wire you want to see is hot. The other wire must go to a good ground, body of car etc. Crimping little alligator clips onto the end of the wires makes this a little easier. If the wire or terminal you are testing is hot, the current will pass through the bulb to the chassis ground and light up the bulb.
Generally, most starting circuits work like this. A wire runs from the positive terminal of the battery into the fuse box, providing power for everything. There should be no problem here since all the rest of the stuff on your car works. Something is amiss between the fuse box and the starter solenoid. From the fuse box the current either goes to the clutch switch and then to the ignition switch or to the ignition switch and then to the clutch switch. It has to be one way or the other. From there it runs back through the firewall and out to the solenoid. Start at the solenoid and work your way back through the circuit until you find out what is wrong. This is all the mechanic is going to do, execept if he does it you better pick up a jumbo size tub of vas at wally mart. :-)
Here's where you start.
Check for 12v at starter solenoid, the big fat wire.
Next check the trigger wire for the solenoid. This is the one that energizes the solenoid when it gets an electrical signal from the starter switch. To do this you will have to find out which terminal is the trigger. It will be the one that does NOT have 12v when the key is off. When the key is turned to the crank engine position, this terminal should be energized. The best way to do this is have a buddy, family member, or well trained pet turn the key while you check for voltage with the test light.
Oh, maybe I should add how to use a test light. The positive wire (doesn't matter on a light bulb which one it is) gets held against the terminal or wire you want to see is hot. The other wire must go to a good ground, body of car etc. Crimping little alligator clips onto the end of the wires makes this a little easier. If the wire or terminal you are testing is hot, the current will pass through the bulb to the chassis ground and light up the bulb.
Generally, most starting circuits work like this. A wire runs from the positive terminal of the battery into the fuse box, providing power for everything. There should be no problem here since all the rest of the stuff on your car works. Something is amiss between the fuse box and the starter solenoid. From the fuse box the current either goes to the clutch switch and then to the ignition switch or to the ignition switch and then to the clutch switch. It has to be one way or the other. From there it runs back through the firewall and out to the solenoid. Start at the solenoid and work your way back through the circuit until you find out what is wrong. This is all the mechanic is going to do, execept if he does it you better pick up a jumbo size tub of vas at wally mart. :-)