Calilude

I don't plan on swapping out the motor till I find another job right now. And hopefully I can do that with in the next week or so. The stock motor that's in it now is going to stay in it for at least two-three months that is if I can get it running. I also bought some parts for it today as well. I bought carpet for it which was 20.00. I also got a climate control a rear hatch with the glass and the defroster. I'm also getting the plastic interior for the car all for 165.00 Which isn't bad since everything is in good condition. All stuff will be put on next week or so. :woowoo: Thanks for the advice you guys and I will continue to work on the engine right now. I'll try and get pics up soon. Hey Jeff do you think you can post up pics for me?

JDM CRX 510

Yea just send me the pictures and I'll put it up for you.

Cementups

I've had problems with mine starting a couple times. Everytime that this has happended I took the dist. cap off and the rotor screw had backed out making the rotor spin on the shaft. once I secured it it was good to go.

Calilude

Sounds like a simple problem. I'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully it's that simple. Thanks

jc836

The fact that it cranks is a good thing. Now to the fuel-if the old stuff is still in the lines and had no Sta-Bil in the tank there is a possibility that it is not going to run. You can test the fuel pump to see if it is working using the ON position of the IGN switch and watch/listen to hear the pump run for 2 seconds/ the CHECK light should go out as well. Lift the front carpet on the passenger side and from the OFF position of the switch-turn it to the first ON position and count the number of blinks-ther should be 1 fast one and no more. If all of this proves OK you can also check for fuel by opening the Banjo bolt on the line from the fuel filter to rail-its the one on top. Make sure you have a spare copper washer if you do this and a big rag. This is part of the fuel pump test-a pressure gauge would be better and much safer.
Now for the distributor. If the engine ran before it should still. Take the cap off and make sure the rotor is bolted down-it is possible that the screw backed out as others have suggested. Also, carefully look in the cap and at the parts of the distrbutor for reddish dist-if there is a lot of it the bearing fried and the sensors on the bootm are also toast. One clue to a bad distributor will be an ECU CODE 4-Crank Angle Sensor. The d16a6 is famous for this happening on higher mileage engines. (I have a spare for sale, BTW)
You can check for spark by remoing one of the plug wires and using either a plug or screwdriver (not recommended) test that. Using a plug with the threads connected/grounded to the engine will let you know if there is output. It has been suggested that you might have clogged injectors-can happen.

Last-have you tried to use starting fluid from a spray can? This generally works on a lot of cars. I don't think replacing anything other than the spark plugs is needed unless you find a bad cap, rotor or distributor. Honda wires, btw, last for many years.