CRX direct motor swaps
#1
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CRX direct motor swaps
I'm lookin to swap out my CRX motor with a motor that I won't have to reweld the engine brackets. I'm wanting the b16a2 motor kit, but I don't really know how much work it will be to install. If there are any other motor apps. that would work better, and get equal or more hp. I would appricate the info
thanks
thanks
#2
a b16a1 would be the best choice for the ef chassis (88-91 crx/civics)...it comes w/ cable tranny so you don't have to convert like on a b16a2...it's also non obd so you don't have to convert the ef chassis to obd ii b/c the b16a2 is that
judging by your name you have an hf crx...it has the mpfi which the newer motors require so no wiring mess (you do have to add 4 wires for vtec activation...if you get a vtec engine)...the hf though has smaller axles and the larger engine will use a beefier axle and this will require you to swap out the front knuckles with those from a (any non 4spd manual civic or non hf crx)...with a b series motor you can buy mount kits that do not require welding (such as hcp engineering or hasport)...they also sell an adj shift linkage b/c your stock shift linkage will need to be cut and welded to fit properly
judging by your name you have an hf crx...it has the mpfi which the newer motors require so no wiring mess (you do have to add 4 wires for vtec activation...if you get a vtec engine)...the hf though has smaller axles and the larger engine will use a beefier axle and this will require you to swap out the front knuckles with those from a (any non 4spd manual civic or non hf crx)...with a b series motor you can buy mount kits that do not require welding (such as hcp engineering or hasport)...they also sell an adj shift linkage b/c your stock shift linkage will need to be cut and welded to fit properly
#3
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a dohc zc will bolt to your stock motor mounts and utilize the stock engine components i'm pretty sure. it would be the cheapest/easiest i believe, unless one of these wrenchheads tell you different
#4
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Actually, despite all the ZC dogging you see on this site, I've driven in two of my friends' CRX's that have DOHC ZC's in em. Man, those lil things pack a big punch! I mean, think about it...the car weighs at the absolute most (in the case of my 1991 CRX Si) 2700 pounds, equipped with sunroof, A/C, and side impact beams...You don't need a B16 to give a car that small a big jump.
Find yourself a ZC, invest in a tube header and the basic external intake/exhaust boltons, and you'll be very impressed with the car. The only problem with the ZC is that it automatically puts you in the unlimited class in the SCCA.
Find yourself a ZC, invest in a tube header and the basic external intake/exhaust boltons, and you'll be very impressed with the car. The only problem with the ZC is that it automatically puts you in the unlimited class in the SCCA.
#5
this is CRXtreme20.....i agree with jaje, i'm in the process of doin that swap myself but when you get the new knuckles go ahead and get them from a junk yard but go have new bearings put in them or it will make noises, the new bearings are about $40 per side so it is not too bad. the good thing about the HF is the wiring (call hasport and ask for the v-tec harness $75 but the best $75 you ever spent) but then the axels kick us in the ass so it evens out but we HF drivers are still lighter!
#7
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Originally posted by AwwsChwA
...the car weighs at the absolute most (in the case of my 1991 CRX Si) 2700 pounds, equipped with sunroof, A/C, and side impact beams...
...the car weighs at the absolute most (in the case of my 1991 CRX Si) 2700 pounds, equipped with sunroof, A/C, and side impact beams...
#8
i got my knuckles from the junkyard and had to have new bearings installed...so that's good advice if you get them from there...also check the condition of the ball joints (lower, upper and tie rod end) to see if they are in bad condition or even leaking grease [they'll break quicker than you'd think])