crxb16er

congrats 3 hours isnt bad for the first pull, now putting it back in does take a little more time to do. but congrats

Magik

Thanks...did quite a bit of prep work for it...

Any suggestions on my last question?

Jason

crxb16er

depends on what ur planning on doing, normally u replace the water pump, timing belt, alternator belt, while the engine is out and might as well do a new exhaust manifold gasket if ur old one is shot if u never took it off then ur good to go, if everything is decent then just slap it in there and call it a day, when i put in my last engine i did everything b4 i dropped it in just because i didnt want to take it out and had the down time to play around

Magik

The D15B1 in now in my Si (as of last night), with the Si MPFI attached and soon to have a cold air intake attached. Everything seems to be fine, mind you there is some oil in my spark plug chamber, any ideas what to do there?...and how to do it? Also there is a weird idle problem...when idling it rev's from about 900rpm to 2000rpm all on it's own...I don't have a clue what that is. (help)


Jason

PS> Also discovered that I need a new Rad...sigh...would you recommend getting a recore or a new one?

jaje

if you don't know how old the plugs are change them...also do the plug wires and all the ground wires (you can make your own out of 8 gauge monster cable with some good terminals and some shrink wrap to put on the ends to prevent corrosion)

spark plug chamber?...not sure what exactly that is but you probably have a leaking spark plug seal on your valve cover...it is an easy fix with some new rubber gasket or you can put on silicon gasket maker on the old seal to help close it shut

Magik

Well scuse me if I described that wrong ...you know the long "chamber" type place in the valve cover where the spark plug sits...yeesh. Anyhoo, I'm buying a new VC gasket and spark plug seals on my lunch.

Jason

crxb16er

yah make sure the washer around the tip of the spark plug isnt damaged, if u have any crud (dirt, debris) on the tip of the threads itll make it so u'll lose compression thru the spark plug chamber, and also check the ring gaskets at the top of the valve cover, with ur new vc gaskets you'll probably solve the problem, and its good to use a few dabs of rtv silicon around the edges of the gaskets also, which i always do just to help the sealing process.

brtecson

i had the same prob with my idle. i changed the MAF ground, replaced a few vacuum hoses, and replaced the battery all at the same time, started up the engine, and the prob was gone. i dunno which one fixed it tho:chuckles:

crxb16er

normally a bouncing idle while the car is stationary with no change in pedal position is a vacume leak at either the intake manifold hoses or the intake manifold gasket, old crusty hoses leaking or some hose blown off somewhere or not clamped down if need be (not all hoses are clamped but some tend to fall off due to wear over time), this has been my experience with bouncing idle, high idle usually is a removed temp sensor on the back of the block causing the car to remain in warm up mode, or u need to adjust ur idle control screw on the intake manifold. hope that helps clear stuff up

Magik

What the heck is a "MAF Ground"??


Thanks, that was very useful I will check out a few of those things...new intake manifold gasket as of yesterday...if that was leaking how could I tell?

Jason