Fields controller?
#1
Fields controller?
Guys
I'm a n3wb here, but thought I would ask a quick question before heading off to bed.
I recently (thursday) swapped a D16Z6 into my 89 Si. I stayed with OBD-0 so I am re-using most of everything. Along with my swap I also receieved a wiring harness to integrate the crx harness and the fields harness (plug-n-play) The two wires that arent hooked up are the yellow and blue wires (VTEC related)
The problem I am having is I cant get VTEC to engage correctly. Once I do the setting on the controller to save it, for some reason it forgets the setting and goes back to like 2300 or somewhere around that area. I am only hooking up the blue wire to the solenoid signal wire, so i dont know if I'm hooking the correct wire up, or if I need to ground the yellow wire or something.
Any help would be appreciated
I'm a n3wb here, but thought I would ask a quick question before heading off to bed.
I recently (thursday) swapped a D16Z6 into my 89 Si. I stayed with OBD-0 so I am re-using most of everything. Along with my swap I also receieved a wiring harness to integrate the crx harness and the fields harness (plug-n-play) The two wires that arent hooked up are the yellow and blue wires (VTEC related)
The problem I am having is I cant get VTEC to engage correctly. Once I do the setting on the controller to save it, for some reason it forgets the setting and goes back to like 2300 or somewhere around that area. I am only hooking up the blue wire to the solenoid signal wire, so i dont know if I'm hooking the correct wire up, or if I need to ground the yellow wire or something.
Any help would be appreciated
#3
this should tell you everything you'll need...but having a factory service manual would be invaluable
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
#4
RacinMasonC
Join Date: Jan 2003
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ok i'm going from my Apexi V-AFC.. but on the fields if theres a controller out-put for VTEC then that you need to connect to the VTEC soleniod.. (just 1 wire on the soleniod) and leave the other one.
i'm not sure what the color blue wire is but i hope i helped you out ???? maybe
Mason
i'm not sure what the color blue wire is but i hope i helped you out ???? maybe
Mason
#5
Well I tried hooking just the blue wire out (VTEC output I believe) and I *think it was engaging. It was not audible through the sound of the exhaust, but I could hear an electric whining/buzzing sound that was familiar to me (from when I had my 93 EX coupe) So maybe vtec was engaging? The only other problem is I cannot get the fields controller to remember where I want it to engage. It always has tec cross-over point set to where my rpm's are at currently. Is there something I need to ground possibly?
#6
RacinMasonC
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hmm, you should NEVER set any settings with the car on... only on ACCII and then set it ... turn the key off.. the start it to see if it saved it. they say you can mess up the controller if you set it while the car is running. yes you can't really tell in the exhaust too much considering the z6 VTEC is kinda weak.. but you should notice it by the sound you are hearing and if it pulls a little more... NOT a lot more.. but still noticeable. let me know whats up! later
Mason
Mason
#7
Well lets take into consideration the fact that my spool valve is broke too. It is leaking some oil out of where the VTEC oil pressure connector sits, so could the oil pressure be screwing it up or what?
Also, is the sound im hearing about consistent with what you are used to? I am pretty sure it was VTEC, considering the engine revved past 7200 rpms or so, whereas when I disconnected the blue wire, the engine was cutting out around 7k (such as the A6 used to) so my theory was that it was able to go above the 7k mark with VTEC engaged, however the car still doesnt feel any quicker than with my A6.
I am also running a short ram and an RSR 4-2-1 header
Also, is the sound im hearing about consistent with what you are used to? I am pretty sure it was VTEC, considering the engine revved past 7200 rpms or so, whereas when I disconnected the blue wire, the engine was cutting out around 7k (such as the A6 used to) so my theory was that it was able to go above the 7k mark with VTEC engaged, however the car still doesnt feel any quicker than with my A6.
I am also running a short ram and an RSR 4-2-1 header
#8
RacinMasonC
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well since you aren't using the oil pressure switch i wouldn't think it would make that big of a difference, if any at all. yeah it wont' FEEL too much faster than the a6 but it is.. or it should be.. i found that out after i raced my friend before and after the swap.. probably a good 1+ car gain i had on him..
btw what do you have the fuel curves at? or can the fields controller do that? i'm not too familiar with the fields.
btw what do you have the fuel curves at? or can the fields controller do that? i'm not too familiar with the fields.
#9
Yes, you can do the fuel curves *somewhat. You are really just tricking the MAP voltages however. Basically it has RPM increments of 1000 and you can set the delivery +/- 30%
ANy idea why you only gained about 1 car? You are gaining almost 20 hp, and add in a theoretical 5-10 or so for my intake/exhaust/header
ANy idea why you only gained about 1 car? You are gaining almost 20 hp, and add in a theoretical 5-10 or so for my intake/exhaust/header
#10
RacinMasonC
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i said 1 + car.. it was a while ago, so i know i for surely gained at least 1 car.. dont' wanna say like 4 cars and not know for sure and get your hopes up. well probably gain 10-12 whp from the headswap. and with intake header exhaust probably.. 8-10.. how much does I/H/E gain you in the quarter? not enough.... so your looking at maybe like .3 -.5 second difference in the 1/4. and i think 3 cars is about 1 second.. so 1 car is like .3 better... i dunno tho.. JMO