Hi anyone,

I know how to change rear drum type brake, but rear disc brake is new to me, anyone has a step by step instruction telling how to change rear disc brake on my 2002 LE V6 Accord. Thanks.

 

I just did mine so ill write it up real quick.
Loosen lugnuts, then jack up the car.
take wheel off.
Unbolt 2 screws, youll need an open end wrench for the top one since the e-brake is connected and wont allow a socket inbetween. There is also a little metal piece that youll need to hold while you unscrew the bolts.
Take the caliper off and take out the pads.
Put the new pads in .
Take a BIG flat tip screwdriver and rotate the piston clockwise to push it in, cause it has to fit over the new pads.
Bolt the calipar right back up. Easy peeze... I did the whole brakejob (front and rear) in an hour and a half.. Hardest part is the ****in pistons. Oh yea dont forget to take off the top of the brake fluid under the hood otherwise you wont be able to get the piston to retract.

 

& since the e-brake must be off, put behind under your wheels when it's jacked up.

the changes of it rolling off the jack are way slim but its just a smart thing to do. its the type of accident that you don't want to have to tell people happened. you know, cuz its so easy to prevent.

-w

 

Instead of a big screwdriver to send the rear piston in, you can just you some needle nose pliers.

Also, use some of that anti-squeal on the back of the pads.

I'd reccommend some of the Permatex Anti-Seize for the brake sliders along with all the bolts too.

 

Thanks to everyone, I am going to try it on Sat.

Sounds like it is easier to change rear disc brake than drum.

 

I did this on my 2001 Accord (rear disk with abs) last night, but have a problem with the pads rubbing.

My brake piston has a "crosshair" pattern on its face. I think, when I turned the piston (which was an accidental discovery BTW) I didn't make sure the bump on the back of the new pad lined up in one of the crosshair groove. Is it supposed to? And does any re-adjustment need to be done for the parking brake to account of the new pads?

Thanks.

Scott

 

I recently changed my 6th gen brakes, lol after reading this thread.

It was really easy.

The steps above work good.

That anti squeak grease stuff seems to work, I recommend it since its cheap.

Make sure you take the master cylinder cap off (main brake fluid thing under the hood) Also it’s a good idea to wrap a rag or 2 around it because a tiny bit of fluid will prolly spit out. You shouldn’t need to top it off or anything.

The only problem I had was pushing the piston back into the caliper. Maybe I didn't do it right, but I couldn’t get it back in with a flathead or needlenose. Instead I used a C-clamp. That worked a lot better. After I did my first brake I grabbed one of those pistol grip clamps, and that worked like a champ on the rest.

As soon as I drove the car, there was little pressure on the brake pedal, pumping it a few times stiffened it right up, I assume this is normal.

After that, the petal was a little too stiff. I drove it for a little, braking like crazy, then floored it in reverse, and braked a bunch. (I read that this was a good idea to help the brakes self adjust)

After about 5 min of driving my brakes were back to normal, and of course working better cause they are new. You might notice an odor from the new brakes or possibly a few drips of brake fluid burning off of something

 

You actually don't NEED to remove it, it will overflow out if you max it out, it's built to allow for overflow.