Photos Of My Freshly Detailed 6th Gen Coupe **56k Beware**
#51
Originally posted by MrChad
The first few months I had my car it was garaged.
Then for the next year it lived outside.
Now the last year it's garaged again.
I make a point to wax and clean the paint every month or two.
I have a porter cable DA polisher so the tasks can be down fairly quickly.
The lip spoiler becoming dull is due to the fact that the paint is not the same as the OEM on the rest of the car. OEM coupe under body kits were made in Japan the coupes were made in Marysville, Ohio.
Chips on the bumper are life, every car if driven will get them. (Unless you are super Schmiddy.)
You can see the blue undertones when the evening sun hits the paint. If you park next to any Milano Red Hondas you can really tell the blue hues are making the paint very dark and rich.
I find Meguirs Scratch-x is fairly good at removing swirls but any good high end multi-step polishing system should help. Having your paint professional glazed will 100% bring back that show-room shine too.
The first few months I had my car it was garaged.
Then for the next year it lived outside.
Now the last year it's garaged again.
I make a point to wax and clean the paint every month or two.
I have a porter cable DA polisher so the tasks can be down fairly quickly.
The lip spoiler becoming dull is due to the fact that the paint is not the same as the OEM on the rest of the car. OEM coupe under body kits were made in Japan the coupes were made in Marysville, Ohio.
Chips on the bumper are life, every car if driven will get them. (Unless you are super Schmiddy.)
You can see the blue undertones when the evening sun hits the paint. If you park next to any Milano Red Hondas you can really tell the blue hues are making the paint very dark and rich.
I find Meguirs Scratch-x is fairly good at removing swirls but any good high end multi-step polishing system should help. Having your paint professional glazed will 100% bring back that show-room shine too.
#52
The plastic used to make the kit is not urethane.
It's a low temp cheap Japanesse Polyethalene(sp?)
Holy shit! Japan made something $h1tty, surprise, surprise--they do have people not perfect robots building cars.
So, the point--they can't bake on the finish like they can for the car when it runs down Marysville Production line. The spoiler kits are air dried--aka not as hard a finish. If you ever get the chance to read the back of the side moldings it says Made in Japan. I have a spare set, if I dig them up I'll post a pic.
Why do I have a spare set? Because they break easy in shipping unlike the more bendable OEM type urethanes.
It's a low temp cheap Japanesse Polyethalene(sp?)
Holy shit! Japan made something $h1tty, surprise, surprise--they do have people not perfect robots building cars.
So, the point--they can't bake on the finish like they can for the car when it runs down Marysville Production line. The spoiler kits are air dried--aka not as hard a finish. If you ever get the chance to read the back of the side moldings it says Made in Japan. I have a spare set, if I dig them up I'll post a pic.
Why do I have a spare set? Because they break easy in shipping unlike the more bendable OEM type urethanes.
#55
My other accord, 14 years old ^, 186,000 miles.
I am honestly having a hard time at spotting the amazement too. When a car is one year old, and taken care of, shouldn't it shine like that?
I mean, 21,000 miles is really nothing for a honda..hondas run for 200,000 miles.
When it looks that great at 200,000 miles then I can go WOW, thats awesome!
Until then..it does look good..but no different then any other new car.
Nate.
#56
Originally posted by MrChad
The plastic used to make the kit is not urethane.
It's a low temp cheap Japanesse Polyethalene(sp?)
Holy shit! Japan made something $h1tty, surprise, surprise--they do have people not perfect robots building cars.
So, the point--they can't bake on the finish like they can for the car when it runs down Marysville Production line. The spoiler kits are air dried--aka not as hard a finish. If you ever get the chance to read the back of the side moldings it says Made in Japan. I have a spare set, if I dig them up I'll post a pic.
Why do I have a spare set? Because they break easy in shipping unlike the more bendable OEM type urethanes.
The plastic used to make the kit is not urethane.
It's a low temp cheap Japanesse Polyethalene(sp?)
Holy shit! Japan made something $h1tty, surprise, surprise--they do have people not perfect robots building cars.
So, the point--they can't bake on the finish like they can for the car when it runs down Marysville Production line. The spoiler kits are air dried--aka not as hard a finish. If you ever get the chance to read the back of the side moldings it says Made in Japan. I have a spare set, if I dig them up I'll post a pic.
Why do I have a spare set? Because they break easy in shipping unlike the more bendable OEM type urethanes.
From certain angles, my paint looks weak and "coated over" with a haze-like formation---like the clear coat has been eaten away and the color is beginning to fade; I cannot garage the vehicle anymore; that is not an option, so its outdoors all the time.
I will never buy a red car again; I had an "Aztec Red" 1991 Nissan 240SX and had constant problems with the paint and the way it picks up damages; I know you all love your San Marino, but I cannot deal with the maintenance necessary for this color. If you have a spoiler kit already mounted on your car, why do you say "why do I have a spare? Because they break easily during..."? Why would you need another shipped and worry how they break----if you already have one on the car right now?
#57
DJ Scotty:
I ordered my side skirts from Handa-Acc. and they broke during shipping. So they sent me anther set and never asked for the cracked set back.
You may want to try having your car professionally detailed. Then try and wax it 2-3 times as often as you do now. This is the only way really to help prevent further damage. A good pro-detailer should help hide all the current damage and frequent detailing will help maintiane the look. You may want to even try some of Fred's recommended products.
Water spots are life--they just take work to conceil. Unless you plan to purchase a tan, silver, or white car in the future you will always be able to see mother nature at work on your paint.
Show your car some TLC and eventually I think you should be able to hide some of mother natures damage.
My front bumper has many, many small dulling chips. I tailgate --that's life too for me. I hide them well by detailing and polishing the front bumper often. I mean--
A. I can quite driving
B. Repaint every summer (100-200 for a complete bumper in my area.)
C. Detail alot--I like option C, so I just go to town often.
Hope you have some luck with your paint, don't loose hope she can be saved. In addition, flourescnent lights magnify all paint damage about 1million times, so don't judge your paint too critically. Remember, car show rooms have special lighting to hide paint damage too.
I ordered my side skirts from Handa-Acc. and they broke during shipping. So they sent me anther set and never asked for the cracked set back.
You may want to try having your car professionally detailed. Then try and wax it 2-3 times as often as you do now. This is the only way really to help prevent further damage. A good pro-detailer should help hide all the current damage and frequent detailing will help maintiane the look. You may want to even try some of Fred's recommended products.
Water spots are life--they just take work to conceil. Unless you plan to purchase a tan, silver, or white car in the future you will always be able to see mother nature at work on your paint.
Show your car some TLC and eventually I think you should be able to hide some of mother natures damage.
My front bumper has many, many small dulling chips. I tailgate --that's life too for me. I hide them well by detailing and polishing the front bumper often. I mean--
A. I can quite driving
B. Repaint every summer (100-200 for a complete bumper in my area.)
C. Detail alot--I like option C, so I just go to town often.
Hope you have some luck with your paint, don't loose hope she can be saved. In addition, flourescnent lights magnify all paint damage about 1million times, so don't judge your paint too critically. Remember, car show rooms have special lighting to hide paint damage too.
#58
Originally posted by MrChad
DJ Scotty:
I ordered my side skirts from Handa-Acc. and they broke during shipping. So they sent me anther set and never asked for the cracked set back.
You may want to try having your car professionally detailed. Then try and wax it 2-3 times as often as you do now. This is the only way really to help prevent further damage. A good pro-detailer should help hide all the current damage and frequent detailing will help maintiane the look. You may want to even try some of Fred's recommended products.
Water spots are life--they just take work to conceil. Unless you plan to purchase a tan, silver, or white car in the future you will always be able to see mother nature at work on your paint.
Show your car some TLC and eventually I think you should be able to hide some of mother natures damage.
My front bumper has many, many small dulling chips. I tailgate --that's life too for me. I hide them well by detailing and polishing the front bumper often. I mean--
A. I can quite driving
B. Repaint every summer (100-200 for a complete bumper in my area.)
C. Detail alot--I like option C, so I just go to town often.
Hope you have some luck with your paint, don't loose hope she can be saved. In addition, flourescnent lights magnify all paint damage about 1million times, so don't judge your paint too critically. Remember, car show rooms have special lighting to hide paint damage too.
DJ Scotty:
I ordered my side skirts from Handa-Acc. and they broke during shipping. So they sent me anther set and never asked for the cracked set back.
You may want to try having your car professionally detailed. Then try and wax it 2-3 times as often as you do now. This is the only way really to help prevent further damage. A good pro-detailer should help hide all the current damage and frequent detailing will help maintiane the look. You may want to even try some of Fred's recommended products.
Water spots are life--they just take work to conceil. Unless you plan to purchase a tan, silver, or white car in the future you will always be able to see mother nature at work on your paint.
Show your car some TLC and eventually I think you should be able to hide some of mother natures damage.
My front bumper has many, many small dulling chips. I tailgate --that's life too for me. I hide them well by detailing and polishing the front bumper often. I mean--
A. I can quite driving
B. Repaint every summer (100-200 for a complete bumper in my area.)
C. Detail alot--I like option C, so I just go to town often.
Hope you have some luck with your paint, don't loose hope she can be saved. In addition, flourescnent lights magnify all paint damage about 1million times, so don't judge your paint too critically. Remember, car show rooms have special lighting to hide paint damage too.
So I guess I will consider having the car professionally detailed; a couple of years back, I was driving to my last job one morning and I drove right through a bucket of paint that dropped off a truck and landed in one of the lanes on the road I was on----white paint splashed all over the front and sides of my car as I crashed right into the bucket...I had a body shop work on the car all day, and they got all the paint off and simonized the vehicle for me too. Now, years later, she looks like shit again because of the weather, oxidation and the fact that I dont have protection for her under a garage. And it sucks that this color is picking up all the damages associated with weathering, aging paint. This is definitely my last vehicle in a flashy color like this; the next vehicle will be silver or some such color.
You recommend waxing the vehicle to conceal some of these paint damages; a traditional paste wax that needs to dry and haze up, or a liquid wax, do you think?
#59
I would atleast do 3 steps. Just using Wax isn't going to do shit. I recommend the following:
All of these products are from Poorboys , who are located in NY, if you call them at 845-627-5907 and ask for Steve, tell him You know Fred Cook and he will give you a discount.
Wash Car - If you have your own car wash soap, then use it. If not I would use Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. It's a waterless car wash, you just spray and wipe.
Polish - I would use Poorboy's Professional Polish.
Sealant - I would use Poorboy's EX Sealant.
You will be amazed at the results you will get after using all of these products.
All of these products are from Poorboys , who are located in NY, if you call them at 845-627-5907 and ask for Steve, tell him You know Fred Cook and he will give you a discount.
Wash Car - If you have your own car wash soap, then use it. If not I would use Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. It's a waterless car wash, you just spray and wipe.
Polish - I would use Poorboy's Professional Polish.
Sealant - I would use Poorboy's EX Sealant.
You will be amazed at the results you will get after using all of these products.
#60
Originally posted by Fred Cook
I would atleast do 3 steps. Wax isn't going to do shit. I recommend the following:
All of these products are from Poorboys , who are located in NY, if you call them at 845-627-5907 and ask for Steve, tell him You know Fred Cook and he will give you a discount.
Wash Car - If you have your own car wash soap, then use it. If not I would use Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. It's a waterless car wash, you just spray and wipe.
Polish - I would use Poorboy's Professional Polish.
Sealant - I would use Poorboy's EX Sealant.
You will be amazed at the results you will get after using all of these products.
I would atleast do 3 steps. Wax isn't going to do shit. I recommend the following:
All of these products are from Poorboys , who are located in NY, if you call them at 845-627-5907 and ask for Steve, tell him You know Fred Cook and he will give you a discount.
Wash Car - If you have your own car wash soap, then use it. If not I would use Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. It's a waterless car wash, you just spray and wipe.
Polish - I would use Poorboy's Professional Polish.
Sealant - I would use Poorboy's EX Sealant.
You will be amazed at the results you will get after using all of these products.
I shall consider all these steps to getting the car looking better---let me ask you...first, wash the car...this is no problem, but I am assuming you mean first wash and then dry, correct? And THEN move on to the polish, right? Can you give me the suggested procedure for applying the polish please? How is it put on and used for best results as on your red coupe? And then sealant, same thing...how is it applied? Can you give the procedures for these?
And as for car wash soap, I know you are an advocate of the Meguiar's HI TECH wash, as I am of the Gliptone; is the HI TECH really that good? I know you have recommended it many times and I want to try it actually before I go out and get the Gliptone again....right now I have some shit ass Turtle Wax car wash soap that sucks big fat Rhinocerous dick; I am going to look into the Meguiars...