Axle problems
#1
Axle problems
My axles are going out and I need to get them replaced. I am just curious if there are good axles and bad axles to install? Aside from rebuilt ones. Are there any good performance axles out there for a decent price?
when i say performance i dont mean to go faster. just ones that are real solid and will hold up being driven hard.
I drive a 1990 honda accord dx.
when i say performance i dont mean to go faster. just ones that are real solid and will hold up being driven hard.
I drive a 1990 honda accord dx.
#3
I have not heard of any better axles than just the rebuilt ones, besides true racing ones, or really really expensive ones. But just get the new ones at Autozone, with the lifetime warranty, and do it yourself. That will maybe run you 200 including all tools and getting the core charge back. They are not that hard to do. And stay out of fields/off solid road, cuz thats what eats them up quicker.
#5
$55 each at Autozone! Even cheaper at NAPA (believe it or not). And the Autozone's come with lifetime warranty.
You will need a 37mm socket and a breaker bar to brake the hub nut loose. After that, the only special tool you'll need is a ball joint separator. You might wanna have a good wedge handy (although I suggest rebuilding the driver side axle into the old cv joint housing if it's as much a biitch to remove as mine was).
You will need a 37mm socket and a breaker bar to brake the hub nut loose. After that, the only special tool you'll need is a ball joint separator. You might wanna have a good wedge handy (although I suggest rebuilding the driver side axle into the old cv joint housing if it's as much a biitch to remove as mine was).
#6
37mm socket
pull handle/breaker bar
16 or 17mm socket and ratchet
pliers to get the pins out of the lower ball joint nut
wd40
big flat head screwdriver or something to pop the axle loose
hammer
bottle jack
did this 3 days ago...its quick and easy, really.....
autozone replacement axles cost me 55 and 65....core charge was like 110 total
dont need seals unless they're leaking or you're worried they might get damaged...
1. loosen all the lugnuts and both axle nuts before jacking it up
2. jack it up and pull off the wheels and loosen the axle nuts the rest of the way off
3. take the pin out of the lower ball joint nut, and loosen it with the 17(or 16)mm socket
4. put the bottle jack under the stud of the ball joint and pump it until it's snug, and be carefull not to **** up the threads
5. hit the lower control arm with the hammer a few times real good and it should release the ball joint
6. if you have to you can do the same with the tie rod end, but u dont have to
7. bump the axle out of the hub and push it out of the way(if you turn your wheels to the opposite side of where you're working, you'll have enough slack in it to push it aside)
8. take the big flat head and pry it out from the tranny, EASILY, and it should pop out......sometimes the ring on the end of the axle will hang and give u trouble, but keep at it...
9. wd40 the bottom of the strut(wishbone) and it should slide out ......EASY
and the reason i typed all this is cause i wanted to look like i knew SOMETHING....cya
pull handle/breaker bar
16 or 17mm socket and ratchet
pliers to get the pins out of the lower ball joint nut
wd40
big flat head screwdriver or something to pop the axle loose
hammer
bottle jack
did this 3 days ago...its quick and easy, really.....
autozone replacement axles cost me 55 and 65....core charge was like 110 total
dont need seals unless they're leaking or you're worried they might get damaged...
1. loosen all the lugnuts and both axle nuts before jacking it up
2. jack it up and pull off the wheels and loosen the axle nuts the rest of the way off
3. take the pin out of the lower ball joint nut, and loosen it with the 17(or 16)mm socket
4. put the bottle jack under the stud of the ball joint and pump it until it's snug, and be carefull not to **** up the threads
5. hit the lower control arm with the hammer a few times real good and it should release the ball joint
6. if you have to you can do the same with the tie rod end, but u dont have to
7. bump the axle out of the hub and push it out of the way(if you turn your wheels to the opposite side of where you're working, you'll have enough slack in it to push it aside)
8. take the big flat head and pry it out from the tranny, EASILY, and it should pop out......sometimes the ring on the end of the axle will hang and give u trouble, but keep at it...
9. wd40 the bottom of the strut(wishbone) and it should slide out ......EASY
and the reason i typed all this is cause i wanted to look like i knew SOMETHING....cya
#9
Originally posted by AcuraFanatic
Good luck with your search guys. And just as a question, how many miles on your Accord's when they failed?
Good luck with your search guys. And just as a question, how many miles on your Accord's when they failed?
#10
Originally posted by AccordSleeper
my axles are still ok but i did a swap 99.8K miles and now i have 5sp axles. btw, you know CCT Axle is right up there in Bedford I believe.
my axles are still ok but i did a swap 99.8K miles and now i have 5sp axles. btw, you know CCT Axle is right up there in Bedford I believe.