Question of timing belt
#1
Question of timing belt
I have a Honda Accord 2002 SE for 6 years (I bought it brand new in 7/2002).
Now its milage is 55,000 miles (it run less than 10,000 in recent 2 years and I drive about 10 miles local every day), so far so good and it has no problem.
Now my concern is the timing belt. I was told that for engine from Honda Accord, if the timing belt is broken, it will destroy the whole engine. The manual suggest to change the timing belt in 60,000 miles in severe condition and 90,000 miles in normal condition.
Should I change the timing belt now or in 60,000 miles or sometime later? Does anybody share the experience about it? (And I'm not sure whether the driving condition is severe or normal. I'm in Missouri.)
Thanks,
Now its milage is 55,000 miles (it run less than 10,000 in recent 2 years and I drive about 10 miles local every day), so far so good and it has no problem.
Now my concern is the timing belt. I was told that for engine from Honda Accord, if the timing belt is broken, it will destroy the whole engine. The manual suggest to change the timing belt in 60,000 miles in severe condition and 90,000 miles in normal condition.
Should I change the timing belt now or in 60,000 miles or sometime later? Does anybody share the experience about it? (And I'm not sure whether the driving condition is severe or normal. I'm in Missouri.)
Thanks,
#2
It is much much cheaper to replace the timing belt than repair the motor once the belt has snapped.
Given the low mileage per year, I would replace the belt sooner rather than later.
If not for the peace of mind, then for the added insurance against belt failure.
Given the low mileage per year, I would replace the belt sooner rather than later.
If not for the peace of mind, then for the added insurance against belt failure.
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#3
The replacement interval is something like 90k miles or 7 years. You are getting close to the 7-years part.
Check your owners manual for the time-interval because I'm not sure if 7-years is correct.
If it breaks, the pistons can hit the valve. It gets VERY expensive to fix that.
Check your owners manual for the time-interval because I'm not sure if 7-years is correct.
If it breaks, the pistons can hit the valve. It gets VERY expensive to fix that.
#4
I plan to change timing belt before August.
There are a good reputation garage and a Honda dealer (I have no experience for this one) in my town. And I also bought 7yrs/100,000mile warranty from Honda.
I dont know how complex the work to change timing belt. Is it better to go to Honda Dealer to do it? And should I make sure the Honda Genuine parts (e.g, belt, water pump) to be used?
Thanks again.
There are a good reputation garage and a Honda dealer (I have no experience for this one) in my town. And I also bought 7yrs/100,000mile warranty from Honda.
I dont know how complex the work to change timing belt. Is it better to go to Honda Dealer to do it? And should I make sure the Honda Genuine parts (e.g, belt, water pump) to be used?
Thanks again.
Last edited by kenjs; 07-16-2008 at 09:34 AM.
#5
I don't go to the dealer for hardly anything but I would recommend taking it to the dealer for the timing belt replacement. Naturally they'll use Honda parts at the dealer. It might be a bit more expensive to take it to the dealer but if you have any timing related issues after the job is done you have the dealer to rely on. I've heard a number of horror stories about other garages doing the timing belt job wrong.
#6
If you'd like to tell us where you are, maybe(?) someone knows a good shop?
Timing belt is NOT a job for beginner, but it can be done by serious backyard mechanics. Search around, there's a couple threads. If you want to do it yourself, you should buy the repair book from www.helminc.com for very detailed instructions.
Timing belt is NOT a job for beginner, but it can be done by serious backyard mechanics. Search around, there's a couple threads. If you want to do it yourself, you should buy the repair book from www.helminc.com for very detailed instructions.
#7
i'm considering it on my '91. I don't really know how to tell how bad a belt is from sight but as abused as it was when i picked it up i don't really want to drive it around all summer.
You pretty much just have to align some timing marks have have cyl 1 at TDC and just not move any of the works right? Doesn't look like a whole lot of room to work by but i've got a hell of a lot of tools and air tools. That and about 5 or 6 years worth of technician work. Just never really done a belt alone. I've done 2 but that was under close supervision. Anything i should look out for. Like tensioners that bust or something special?
You pretty much just have to align some timing marks have have cyl 1 at TDC and just not move any of the works right? Doesn't look like a whole lot of room to work by but i've got a hell of a lot of tools and air tools. That and about 5 or 6 years worth of technician work. Just never really done a belt alone. I've done 2 but that was under close supervision. Anything i should look out for. Like tensioners that bust or something special?
#8
Inspecting the belt isn't reliable. It'll look good almost up until it breaks.
Many people replace waterpump at the same time so you don't have to do the whole job over again.
Crankshaft pulley is probably the most difficult thing. Get the crank-holding tool or use a really powerful air impact wrench.
Check & understand the timing marks before you take off the old belt. Most likely something will move, so you can't count on JUST slipping the new belt on.
Many people replace waterpump at the same time so you don't have to do the whole job over again.
Crankshaft pulley is probably the most difficult thing. Get the crank-holding tool or use a really powerful air impact wrench.
Check & understand the timing marks before you take off the old belt. Most likely something will move, so you can't count on JUST slipping the new belt on.
#9
well i know that, like i said i've been a tech for a number of years so i've got a pulley puller so i doubt the crankshaft will give me trouble. That and the 1/2" snap-on impact i have will make short work of that. I'm still looking more into it but i didnt realize that honda uses two belts on most of these blocks. A balancing belt and a timing belt. I have no issue doing the water pump at the same time, never seen one go out driving by a timing belt but i know its just a good thing to do cause if the pump seizes or quits working for whatever reason it'll cause stress on the belt, which could snap and fuck the engine over.
But now i'm faced with doing an h22 auto swap or spend the couple hundred on new parts for an F22 with 248,000 miles. I'm kinda leaning towards the H22. Never really done a swap but it doesn't look like anything i can't do. I have quite a bit of knowledge of where to get certain mounts and stuff from so maybe i'll just do that. Other thing that blows hole is the mazda headgasket began to show signs of destoration today. I smelled oil or burning wires, pop'd the hood and saw oil bubbling around the number 1 cyl spark plug . Granted that means i need to get my shit together and drop my f2 hybrid f2t in it like soon lol.
But now i'm faced with doing an h22 auto swap or spend the couple hundred on new parts for an F22 with 248,000 miles. I'm kinda leaning towards the H22. Never really done a swap but it doesn't look like anything i can't do. I have quite a bit of knowledge of where to get certain mounts and stuff from so maybe i'll just do that. Other thing that blows hole is the mazda headgasket began to show signs of destoration today. I smelled oil or burning wires, pop'd the hood and saw oil bubbling around the number 1 cyl spark plug . Granted that means i need to get my shit together and drop my f2 hybrid f2t in it like soon lol.
#10
Sounds like you'll handle the crank pulley OK. It IS right-hand thread, even tho there's occasional stories saying otherwise.
There's a couple places to get manuals on-line. Search 'cause I think I'm not allowed to post them here. They're usually British versions based on RH drive & engine sizes. But the procedures for timing belt should be good.
I got burned by the waterpump on a 95 Integra. Changed timing belt & inspected the #$#^ out of the waterpump. It was PERFECT. So I didnt change it. Within a year it started leaking so I had to do the timing belt job all over again. I dont hear about them seizing, just leaking. Your car, your judgement, YMMV.
H22 is supposed to be an almost-painless drop-in substitute. But I havent done it so I cant give much advice about it.
There's a couple places to get manuals on-line. Search 'cause I think I'm not allowed to post them here. They're usually British versions based on RH drive & engine sizes. But the procedures for timing belt should be good.
I got burned by the waterpump on a 95 Integra. Changed timing belt & inspected the #$#^ out of the waterpump. It was PERFECT. So I didnt change it. Within a year it started leaking so I had to do the timing belt job all over again. I dont hear about them seizing, just leaking. Your car, your judgement, YMMV.
H22 is supposed to be an almost-painless drop-in substitute. But I havent done it so I cant give much advice about it.
Last edited by JimBlake; 07-22-2008 at 04:59 AM.