I bought a 1999 Honda Accord EX last year. The power door locks will not work unless the key is in the on position. So long as the key is in the on position, the power door locks work. Additionally, I can lock/unlock all doors from the driver's side front door lock while outside of the car, but this also only works when I have a 2nd key in the ignition and in the on position.

Possibly related is the fact that I have been unable to get the keyless entry FOB to work. The FOB lights up etc, but will not program. And yes, I am using the proper procedure. I've even purchased a second FOB (yes, the correct kind). However, it too will not program.

Is it possible that someone has migrated the power door lock power source to an ignition power source? If so, where would this likely have been done. Where should I check? Could something else explain the symptoms above?

I also realize that the keyless entry/security system problems could be unrelated to the power lock problems, but wanted to include it here just in case they were related.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

 

Check fuses 13 and 12. See thy say hot at all times fuse 9 hot in on or start so fuse 9 is probably working. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.

The multiplexes are a piece of shit too.

 

Thanks for lending a hand, Fuse.

As it turns out, fuse 13 was blown. I had a spare, but it blew nicely the moment it made contact. Ignition off at the time, btw.

I went ahead and carried out the remainder of the tests:

Fuse 12 = hot always
Fuse 13 = hot always (but on the opposite post as 12 if that matters)
Fuse 9 = hot in on or start

Thanks!

 

All rite now we are getting somewhere.So fuse 13 was blown this means we have a short to ground and this is probably why your locks do not work.

Ok the first diagram is a power distribution diagram. As you can see fuse 13 power the multiplex,gauge assembly,clock,heater control ext. now this may just be for the memory. SO probably your clock will not hold time? Or some of these things are not working properly.

The second diagram is a fuse box connector view.

Use the blow up button on the bottom rite of the pick to see the diagrams better.All honda Diagram run up to down Meaning power to ground.

Next diag step
1. get about 7 7.5 amp fuses .
2. Pull out the burned fuse unplug connector A put in a new fuse ,see if it blows the new fuse .(LETS SAY I WILL NOT BLOW WITH CONNECTOR A UNPLUGGED. Look back at the Power distribution connector A gos to the multiplex you would then assume the multiplex is bad.)
3. Continue this same process with connector H,J and C till you find the combination with the unplugged connector and a fuse that will not blow.

We will then go in more depth and find exactly where the short is.Do you understand?

 

Ok, here's what I've been able to determine thus far...

I started with Plug 9(C) on the front of the passenger's side fusebox, since 11 (Multiplex A), 17(J), and 18(H) are on the backside of the fusebox and are tougher in terms of access. Plug 9 is right there once you pull off the fusebox panel trim.

I initially pulled plug 9 then inserted a new 7.5 fuse into fuse 13's slot. It did not blow. The locks work with the key in the off position! I was very excited. I played around with the locks for about 5 minutes with no issues. Next, just to make sure, I reconnected Plug 9. The fuse did not blow. I played around with the locks for a couple of minutes and the fuse held. Next, I placed the key into position "II" and played around with the locks again. I did a few cycles back and forth with the key in the off or "II" position, cycling the locks. Sometime during this period, fuse 13 blew again. I removed fuse 13 and popped in another, which blew at contact. Removed plug 9, put new fuse into fuse 13 and never could get it to blow...until I connected plug 9 and played around the the ignition again.

I have been unable to blow fuse 13 with plug 9 disconnected. Fuse 13 will blow with plug 9 connected. Sometimes the fuse will blow at insertion. Sometimes it takes while of playing around turning the key on/off, etc.

I haven't moved around to the backside of the fusebox yet due to the results I have obtained so far. I can test the remaining connectors if you like, but was having a little trouble removing the glovebox (which I am assuming needs to be removed to access the back of the fusebox). I'm normally a little more tenacious but I was working in direct sunlight. I could also use a better manual. I'm really growing to hate Haynes.

And thanks for the help so far. You've been very informative.

Also, just FYI: my clock has never worked. Display never shows anything. Always been this way.

 

This far we have hit it on the nose every step going smoothly, but now the way you are talking we have hit the dreaded intermittent electrical problem.By the way I see no need to test the other connectors on the fuse box.

Look back at the power distribution diagram we have two things that can go wrong now. One the white wire with the yellow stripe coming out of connector C is intermittently touching ground and blowing the fuse or for some reason you pcm/ecm is shorting out internally some times.

You can do a couple of thing now
1. unplug the B connector at the ECM and see what the fuse dose(if it blows this will prove that the white yellow wire is touching ground)
2. trace the white yellow from the fuse box to the ecm looking for damage
3. just run a new white yellow from the fuse box to the ecm use the same gauge wire and some solder and heat shrink tubing(you could also use some butt connectors)

Lets say you run a new wire and it still blow the fuse probably a short in the ecm.

Ok so look at the diagram It says C15 this means connector C pin 15 all the views are from the back side of the connector so count and look for the white wire with the yellow stripe.

My 2 cents is on the white yellow wire.

 

Now I am going to mess it all up.

Its an intermittent electrical problem. So lets say the heater control panel draws 2 amps,the multiples 2 amps, pcm 2 amps,the clock 2 amps.

This equals 8 amps blows the fuse rite. So we unplug connector c killing a 2 amp draw now we only have 6 amps on a 7.5 amp fuse it will not blow. But lets say the clock is only normally going to draw .5 amps do you see what I'm saying? The clock is the problem not the ecm.

Also some times when things heat up thy draw more amps take this into consideration.

I STILL THINK ITS THE WHITE YELLOW OR MAY BE THE ECM. But some times shit gets tricky.

My back up plan if you run into this and its not fun. You will have to put a 5 amp butt fuse on all 4 white yellow wire in each branch and see what happens.

One last piece of advice call your dealer and have them do a Vin check for recalls some had a multiplex recall and you would get it installed for free. I should have told you sooner but i forgot.


HAVE FUN LOL.

 

Fuse,

Great advice. Thanks once again.

I'm leaving tomorrow to spend a week on the Outer Banks, so I'm not sure if I will touch this while I am out there, or wait until I return. Either way, I'll post again once I've made some progress.