V6 2000 Accord Coupe- Occasional Starting Issues
#11
Originally Posted by kutty
Would a fuel injection cleaner help? I'm thinking about trying that when the gas tank is close to empty. Put the cleaner in the tank and then fill up the tank with gas.
The instructions for finding out what the SRS light means are in the FAQ. It is very unlikely it has anything to do with your problem and could either be a malfunctioning piece of equipment or a glitch caused by a brief electrical surge. You'll want to get it taken care of because your airbags will not deploy if the light is on. If the links are broken, I'm sorry, but I don't look up troubleshooting/trouble code instructions/information for people anymore unless they pay me because it was taking too much of my time (I was getting 5-7 requests a day through the forum and email) and people were taking it for granted :happysad:
#12
Thanks 98CoupeV6 and Andy2541 for all of your help. I am a novice at this, so I'm sure I'll be back with questions. I bought the Chilton's manual so I hope that helps me in figuring out how to clean the EGR ports.
#13
I have a 2000 Accord 4 cyl with 194,000 miles. I had the SRS light come on a while back. I took it to Honda to hook it up to their scanner (don't take it to anyone else beause anything besides a honda scanner will the fuel pump fuse). The Honda scanner said it was my seatbelt. They replaced the seatbelt and the light went away.
Additionally, it didnt cost me any money because all Honda seatbelt issues are convered under a lifetime warranty!
As for the car not starting after its warm, do try to run some STP gas treatment and fuel injector cleaner through it. Also run the premium gas through for about a month. If that doesnt help there is definitely something messed up in the fuel system somewhere.
Additionally, it didnt cost me any money because all Honda seatbelt issues are convered under a lifetime warranty!
As for the car not starting after its warm, do try to run some STP gas treatment and fuel injector cleaner through it. Also run the premium gas through for about a month. If that doesnt help there is definitely something messed up in the fuel system somewhere.
#14
Originally Posted by acid1216
(don't take it to anyone else beause anything besides a honda scanner will the fuel pump fuse)
As for the car not starting after its warm, do try to run some STP gas treatment and fuel injector cleaner through it. Also run the premium gas through for about a month. If that doesnt help there is definitely something messed up in the fuel system somewhere.
#15
Originally Posted by 98CoupeV6
Uh what? Did they tell you that before or after they charged you $60 to do something you could have had done for free?
I have a friend who works at a used car dealer. He hooked up an after market scanner that could not diagnose the problem. When we gave it up, I went to start the car and it would not start. It just wouldn't fire. Luckily my friend knew what had happened and he replaced a fuse in the fuse relay box. Apparently using an after market scanner will cause a fuse to blow.
How exactly are you determining it's a fuel system problem? I would imagine it's an idle air induction problem. Premium gas won't do a damn thing, all gasses have the same types of detergents. All 91 or 93 is going to do is reduce your power and increase carbon build up because the gasoline is going to be too resistant to detonation.
I have a friend who works at a used car dealer. He hooked up an after market scanner that could not diagnose the problem. When we gave it up, I went to start the car and it would not start. It just wouldn't fire. Luckily my friend knew what had happened and he replaced a fuse in the fuse relay box. Apparently using an after market scanner will cause a fuse to blow.
How exactly are you determining it's a fuel system problem? I would imagine it's an idle air induction problem. Premium gas won't do a damn thing, all gasses have the same types of detergents. All 91 or 93 is going to do is reduce your power and increase carbon build up because the gasoline is going to be too resistant to detonation.
#16
Originally Posted by acid1216
I just know that since I've used that stuff I've had no idling problems (cross my fingers) .
As for the light, it can be diagnosed by yourself by 'jumping' the data connector as described in the FAQ
#18
Summarize:
When starting the car on a hot OR cold day for the first time, it starts fine.
When driving around, starting the car a few times, and then maybe the third or fourth time when the engine is hot from driving around, it won't start.
It drives fine.
It does not stall while driving.
Could it be the PGM main relay?
I say this because a bad relay results in no signal to the fuel pump resulting in no fuel at the injectors. Due to wear and tear, the relay is worn out over the years. As the car is driven throughout the day, the joints start to expand due to heat and the main relay starts to lose contact because the joints are saudered.
What I am going to do as the first step is use fuel injection cleaner.
Again, I am assuming the dealer did replace the PGM-F1 main relay. I took the car in when it had about 99,000 mi. My warranty expired at 100,000 mi. I have a feeling they did not change it.
If the fuel injection cleaner does not work, then I may look into changing the main relay myself. I bought the Chiltons manual.
What is a good resource that I can use (maybe on the internet) to learn about cleaning out EGR ports with pictures.
kutty
When starting the car on a hot OR cold day for the first time, it starts fine.
When driving around, starting the car a few times, and then maybe the third or fourth time when the engine is hot from driving around, it won't start.
It drives fine.
It does not stall while driving.
Could it be the PGM main relay?
I say this because a bad relay results in no signal to the fuel pump resulting in no fuel at the injectors. Due to wear and tear, the relay is worn out over the years. As the car is driven throughout the day, the joints start to expand due to heat and the main relay starts to lose contact because the joints are saudered.
What I am going to do as the first step is use fuel injection cleaner.
Again, I am assuming the dealer did replace the PGM-F1 main relay. I took the car in when it had about 99,000 mi. My warranty expired at 100,000 mi. I have a feeling they did not change it.
If the fuel injection cleaner does not work, then I may look into changing the main relay myself. I bought the Chiltons manual.
What is a good resource that I can use (maybe on the internet) to learn about cleaning out EGR ports with pictures.
kutty
#19
Originally Posted by kutty
Summarize:
When starting the car on a hot OR cold day for the first time, it starts fine.
When driving around, starting the car a few times, and then maybe the third or fourth time when the engine is hot from driving around, it won't start.
It drives fine.
It does not stall while driving.
Could it be the PGM main relay?
I say this because a bad relay results in no signal to the fuel pump resulting in no fuel at the injectors. Due to wear and tear, the relay is worn out over the years. As the car is driven throughout the day, the joints start to expand due to heat and the main relay starts to lose contact because the joints are saudered.
What I am going to do as the first step is use fuel injection cleaner.
Again, I am assuming the dealer did replace the PGM-F1 main relay. I took the car in when it had about 99,000 mi. My warranty expired at 100,000 mi. I have a feeling they did not change it.
If the fuel injection cleaner does not work, then I may look into changing the main relay myself. I bought the Chiltons manual.
What is a good resource that I can use (maybe on the internet) to learn about cleaning out EGR ports with pictures.
kutty
When starting the car on a hot OR cold day for the first time, it starts fine.
When driving around, starting the car a few times, and then maybe the third or fourth time when the engine is hot from driving around, it won't start.
It drives fine.
It does not stall while driving.
Could it be the PGM main relay?
I say this because a bad relay results in no signal to the fuel pump resulting in no fuel at the injectors. Due to wear and tear, the relay is worn out over the years. As the car is driven throughout the day, the joints start to expand due to heat and the main relay starts to lose contact because the joints are saudered.
What I am going to do as the first step is use fuel injection cleaner.
Again, I am assuming the dealer did replace the PGM-F1 main relay. I took the car in when it had about 99,000 mi. My warranty expired at 100,000 mi. I have a feeling they did not change it.
If the fuel injection cleaner does not work, then I may look into changing the main relay myself. I bought the Chiltons manual.
What is a good resource that I can use (maybe on the internet) to learn about cleaning out EGR ports with pictures.
kutty