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Help with Brake job- 95 Accord

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Old 09-29-2005 | 10:25 AM
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Default Help with Brake job- 95 Accord

Hello,

I decided to join up to what looks like the best Accord Forum on the net. I just put the 2nd Accord in as many months in the driveway on Tuesday. This is a 1995 EX 4cyl 5sp.

133k miles, needs a few minor repairs. One of which, of course, is a front brake job.

I just got back from the parts house with a set of Raybestos Ceramic pads, chinese rotors and a Haynes manual.

What else do I need?

How are these rotors attached? Is it a big deal to do this? Do I just need to take it to a shop?


I'd like to bleed the lines also, but I think that is probably going to be impossible without a helper. Right?


Anyway, I'd appreciate any help.

Oh yeah, the other Accord is a 2005 EX-L. The wife's car. We are very impressed with it so far. Bought it new back in August. Great power and handling, very quiet (much quieter than that Trailblazer EXT (POS) ), everything seems so much more higher quality on the '05 than a GM vehicle.
Old 09-29-2005 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Thooks
Hello,

I decided to join up to what looks like the best Accord Forum on the net. I just put the 2nd Accord in as many months in the driveway on Tuesday. This is a 1995 EX 4cyl 5sp.

133k miles, needs a few minor repairs. One of which, of course, is a front brake job.

I just got back from the parts house with a set of Raybestos Ceramic pads, chinese rotors and a Haynes manual.

What else do I need?

How are these rotors attached? Is it a big deal to do this? Do I just need to take it to a shop?


I'd like to bleed the lines also, but I think that is probably going to be impossible without a helper. Right?


Anyway, I'd appreciate any help.

Oh yeah, the other Accord is a 2005 EX-L. The wife's car. We are very impressed with it so far. Bought it new back in August. Great power and handling, very quiet (much quieter than that Trailblazer EXT (POS) ), everything seems so much more higher quality on the '05 than a GM vehicle.
Welcome to HAN! You're spot on about it being the best

The instructions for your car are all in the FAQ, I posted these awhile ago. There are instructions for both the pads and rotor listed seperately. Post in the corresponding threads if you have any trouble with them. They're not difficult but will require some time and patience, especially if you haven't done it before.

If I were you I'd go take your haynes back ASAP and buy a Helms factory service manual...you'll love your haynes until you discover that there are some diagrams and instructions mysteriously absent when you need them.

Raybestos ceramic pads...ehh...'Chinese' rotors...ehh...you would have been better served getting some NAPA/Brembo/OEM rotors and OEM (or one of the many aftermarket names available) metallic pads as I've heard that ceramics tens to be a bit on the noisy side for our cars and won't perform as well, but I've never tried them so I guess I'm just talking out of my ass. Good luck
Old 09-29-2005 | 11:21 AM
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The parts dood said that ceramic was OEM for that car.


If the Raybestos make noise, I'll take them back.
Old 09-29-2005 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Thooks
The parts dood said that ceramic was OEM for that car.


If the Raybestos make noise, I'll take them back.
Hm, I didn't think the Nissin pads for the 5th gens were. Mine aren't. OEM pads are like $40 and I'm in it for longevity and not performance.
Old 09-29-2005 | 01:12 PM
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This is for a front brake job, not rear. I assume you mean rear due to the "Nissin" comment.


Also, your PDF document in the FAQ thread does not discuss removing and replacing the rotors.


What I was originally asking about was the grease and adhesive needed for the pad installation.
Old 09-29-2005 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Thooks
This is for a front brake job, not rear. I assume you mean rear due to the "Nissin" comment.


Also, your PDF document in the FAQ thread does not discuss removing and replacing the rotors.


What I was originally asking about was the grease and adhesive needed for the pad installation.
Well I guess you're pretty screwed then because I just checked both pdf documents and they have all the information you need.
Old 09-29-2005 | 05:05 PM
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Ok. Maybe I overlooked what I needed.

Could you post a link to the documents you are referring to? I would really appreciate it.



Also, there are some more things I'd like to do to this 95 to get it to where I want it-

Fuel filter change- where is it?

Upper and lower hoses and thermostat- Is that the basic loosen hose clamps, remove, replace and tighten? About the T-stat, is that straight forward also?

Valve clearance check and adjustment- looks to be an hour long job. Anything tough about that other than getting the engine in the right position?




I took one of the wheels off this afternoon and took the caliper apart to get the pads out. They look 50% worn. Rotors look like they definitely need replacing.

Since the pads aren't all gone, but the rotors look rough, could this be causing the bad vibration when hitting the brakes at 60+ mph?



Thanks for the help.
Old 09-29-2005 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Thooks
Ok. Maybe I overlooked what I needed.

Could you post a link to the documents you are referring to? I would really appreciate it.



Also, there are some more things I'd like to do to this 95 to get it to where I want it-

Fuel filter change- where is it?

Upper and lower hoses and thermostat- Is that the basic loosen hose clamps, remove, replace and tighten? About the T-stat, is that straight forward also?

Valve clearance check and adjustment- looks to be an hour long job. Anything tough about that other than getting the engine in the right position?




I took one of the wheels off this afternoon and took the caliper apart to get the pads out. They look 50% worn. Rotors look like they definitely need replacing.

Since the pads aren't all gone, but the rotors look rough, could this be causing the bad vibration when hitting the brakes at 60+ mph?



Thanks for the help.
It's the rotor/hub removal and brake pad replacement links in the FAQ.

Bad vibration above 60 would be warped rotors. Try searching for the other stuff, I remember seeing those topics around somewhere.
Old 09-29-2005 | 05:20 PM
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Ok, thanks.

I wanted some feedback on my situation to firm up my thoughts that a simple brake job would correct the problem.
Old 09-29-2005 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Thooks
Ok, thanks.

I wanted some feedback on my situation to firm up my thoughts that a simple brake job would correct the problem.
Yep, shake when braking is definitely bad rotors. Shake when not braking could be misalignment, unbalanced wheel, crap stuck in your tire, etc I like to always replace the pads when I replace the rotors if they get warped just because I'm down there anyway and pads are pretty cheap ($40/set for OEM).



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