Ohh, maybe I didn't clarify enough, the pedal itself isn't pumping, but it feels like it is as in the car doesn't brake smoothly.

And how do drum brakes warp? lol

 

I am pretty sure they don't

 

I had a similar problem my '98 LX and it was the rear drums that were bad. I found out after testing it by using the parking brake only at different speeds and I could feel exactly what you described.

 

Did you have to replace the whole thing or just the pads? I'll have to try that out and see if it still does that using only the rear brakes.

 

Warpage it sound like....hum, perhaps slipping pads not seating properly on calipers? Check retaining pins, and drum do warp, like discs, and cross drilled discs are even more likely to warp and develop hairline cracks. And about pads....AEM makes some of the best I have used, almost no dust, nice stopping power, no noise too, at least for now.

 

Rust spots or differences in surface friction coefficient can cause a "puslation" feeling like you describe.

 

You don't have to buy new drums if they never have been resurfaced before. You can take them off and have them machined at a local shop. You can only do that a few times as there is a limit to how much surface can be taken off.

Make sure to use new brake shoes though, don't try to get away with the old ones.

 

When you think your rotors/drums are 'warped', here's what's usually happening. Pad material is burning itself into the surface unevenly. So some areas are more 'slippery' than others. I bet that can happen with drums just as easily as disks. It's possible for them to be physically warped, but pad transfer seems to be more common.

Other things to check, so you can rule them out...

Bent rim?
Bent hub?
Damaged tires?

 

or oil, grease.

 

Honda Dealer once told me that over-tighteting the lugs nuts will also cause warped rotors and drums. I torque mine to 90ft/lbs.