Help. My Accord's gas pedal was sticking first thing in the morning. I would have to press my foot down harder on the gas than usual to get going, then it would be fine. Then when I got in it to leave work, the same thing would happen. Dealer said it needed an "induction system service" (39K miles). Had that done...gas pedal not sticking, but now it idles rough when it is in gear with my foot on the brake. Took it back less than two months later--they found "broken side motor mount" and replaced that. Runs fine, but still idles rough when I have to come to a stop. Idles ok in park. Seems to be worse when engine is cold....but then can act up at any time. Any suggestions???

 

Out of curiosity, how much did they charge you to clean your throttle body?

Define rough...too low RPM, fluctuating RPM, vibration etc and at what point it started.

 

They charged around $120.00--I thought it was just linkage problem--maybe needed to be lubricated (that is what it was when my Pontiac gas pedal would stick and I could not get it off fast idle several years ago). Should have used Gumout!! I have the extended warranty and thought this problem should be covered--they said it was maintenance. Anyway, since they did this "service" it has had this rought idle. The steering wheel vibrates too much when I have to stop and the car is still in gear--does not do this in park. The RPM gauge does not fluctuate at all....just vibration from the engine thru the steering column and I don't remember it doing this before. When I took it back, they found the broken motor mount (fixed this under warranty). I am concerned that the engine is vibrating so much it broke the motor mount...is this possible? I am tired of this--it is not fun to drive anymore and I find myself trying not to come to complete stops because of this problem. Any ideas? I took it back last week--they could not figure out what it was and they did not think it was a problem--said some cars are worse. Also since this vibrations prob started, there is a rattle on the passenger side that is intermittent since they did that "cabin air filter (?)" thing . Car ran ok until I took it for maintenance...but I was affraid they would not honor the warranty if I did not have the maintenance done. Got sick of that light saying I needed maintenance. Any suggestions would be appreciated....thanks.

 

Another question...what is involved in this "service"? Could they have done it wrong or put something back together incorrectly? Should I ask them to do it again--maybe they would get it right this time? It would be worth the $120 again if it would fix it. I planned to keep this car for a long time...still paying a note on it. I drove my Grand Am for 12 years really enjoyed no car note and was hoping I could do that with this Honda.

 

you could have cleaned the throttle body yourself, and you could have done it for real cheap money. the cost of a bottle of throttle body cleaner is about $7, and it would have taken you 15minutes to do.

 

Also, the svc advisor suggested upping the idle to make it run smoother--but the "tech" said it was in the range it was supposed to be (750-800 from memory). I told him I thought it could be the computer. I know enough about cars to frustrate myself--my dad was a svc advisor for Cadillac back when they had to diagnose the problems and not depend on a computer to tell them what was wrong. I have made other suggestions like an idle sensor--he said computer would tell that. Could it be fuel pump, trash in fuel line, PCV valve? I am so frustrated.

 

should I try the throttle body cleaner now? Do you put it in the gas tank? What is involved?

 

well they already did it so you shouldn't have to do it again. you take off your intake and spray the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body. its very easy to do.

 

Could they have not replaced everything back like it was? Could this be the problem? Could the intake have been replaced incorrectly, or is there only one way it can be done? Thanks for your help...

 

That sucks they charged you $120 to clean your throttle body - it could have been accomplished with a $5 can of carb spray and about a half hour.

As for the rough idle, as long as the RPM isn't below 700 (770+/-50 is the recommended idle for an I4) or so it's not because the idle is set too low. The only thing I can think of would be your idle air control valve, but certainly that would set off a check engine light. When's the last time your spark plugs were changed and your air filter was replaced? It wouldn't hurt to get a new PCV valve, they cost like $7 at autozone. Also, carefully check that all hoses are where they should be and there isn't anything missing.

Maybe your power steering pump is bad? That could cause vibration through the steering wheel. Is the engine itself visibly vibrating more and can you feel it from the passenger seat?

And the light that 'tells you' it's time for maintenance is set to come on at specific intervals no matter how your car is performing and can be turned off per the instructions in your owner's manual. I took that light bulb out of my gauge cluster loooong ago.