98CoupeV6-thanks for your suggestions. I asked the svc adv last time about new plugs and wires and he said I would not need them until 100,000 miles. I found that hard to believe. Last night my sister was with me and she mentioned the vibration, too, so you can feel it in the passenger seat. I assume the engine is vibrating all the time, it is just more noticible to me when sitting still at a stop. If it were your car, what would you do first? Plugs/wires, idle air control, PCV? When they do that induction service--what is involved? Do they have to disconnect alot of stuff--that maybe was not put back properly? It was doing great before this service...just the gas pedal sticking when the engine was cold. Are Honda's hard to work on in terms of me replacing the parts mentioned above? I will get a new air filter on the way home. I really loved this car--I treated myself to this car after I got a divorce and then 3 months later went home to find my mother dead of a heart attack. I was driving a LeSabre then--great car (I only replaced the battery and changed the oil), but looked like I ought to have Blue Hair--what I call an Old Fart car!! I love this Honda--but am getting very frustrated with not being able to get it fixed. And it was working great til I took it for service. What would you do first? Also, if the computer tells what is wrong with the car...what happens when the computer is the problem? Is the computer able to tell the service people that it (the computer) is the problem? Thanks for your help--jules

 

Well first off, if you plan on maintaining this car yourself you need to get on top of it better. Buy a service manual (Helms, the 4 cylinder version costs about $60) to help you out with maintenance and know the service intervals. Spark plugs at 100k is fine, your Honda came with platinum tipped plugs. For replacements I'd suggest $2 copper NGK V-Power, as they will provide optimal spark for our type of engine (relatively low compression, normally aspirated) but will have to be changed every 25-30k instead of the 100k on the platinums.

So leave your plugs and wires alone. Change the PCV, I really doubt it'll do anything about it's worth a shot. It only costs like $7. You can check the intake air filter's condition yourself by removing the top of the intake box. As long as it's not black it's fine. It should have been replaced by now, and if not it's definetly due. Check your service records.

I think the first thing I'd do is drive down to the Honda dealer and bitch up a storm...clearly something they did affected the car and they're not willing to own up to it. Talk to the service manager, and if he doesn't agree to have one of his technicians find out exactly what the problem is demand to talk to a Honda rep. Tell them exactly what you told us, about how much you loved the car and how much this one problem, which started after a routine service, has soured your view of the car and the company. They're generally very generous, especially on a car as new as yours. Vibrating that much is not normal. So try that.

But no, Hondas aren't difficult to work on. Buying a good service manual is the first step though.

 

Thanks for the advice. I have been back to the dealer on 5/10 when they replaced the motor mount and then on 5/19 complaining about the same prob--replacing the motor mount did not really help but glad they found it. I have kinda made friends with the Svc Mgr--he recognizes me as I have taken my car in there for oil changes and other service. He rode with me and it was not doing it as bad as it usually does and I told him that it was really bad the day before I could get it back down there. He and the svc advisor say some vibrate worse--but mine never did this before. The air filter has been changed once when I got the oil changed. I have been having it serviced at the dealer regularly since I went year with that light on. I was afraid they would not honor the ext'd warranty if I did not get the thing serviced. So they have made plenty of money off me and stand to make more if they could get this thing fixed.

 

PS I am going to get that manual you mentioned today. Sadly, I have been having the maintenance that is required/recommended by Honda done at the dealer (except sometimes I get the oil changed at valvoline--but last two times at Honda) for the past year--I rode with that light on for a LONG time. Some stuff is every 15000 miles or so. Got caught up on all the maintenance a good while back and everthing was fine up until the gas pedal sticking started up. I am going to check and make sure everything looks like it is hooked up right..I still think they did not get it all back like it was before that induction svc. Thanks again, and I will let you know what I find out. I really appreciate your advice. Jules

 

Make sure you get the helms from www.helminc.com. The Haynes isn't as good. For the $60 you spend on it you'll save far more over time.

Just make sure all the hoses and places where hoses should plug in have homes. You'll be able to tell.

Here are the possible causes that the Helms lists for engine idle vibration:
1) Low ATF level
2) Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective (I think this would set off a check engine light)
3) Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled
4) Engine output low (aka spark plugs, air filter, air flow sensor, etc)
5) Lock-up clutch piston defective
6) ATF pump worn or binding
7) Lock-up shift valve defective
8) Restricted cooler
Notes: Set idle RPM to the specified idle speed. If still not good, adjust the engine mounts as outlined in the engine section of this service manual.
- Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
- Check ATF cooling system for restriction

 

Thanks for the info. I had already called local auto supply places and they did not have the Helm's book or the Haynes. I will order it online--found it just before I left work. I looked under the hood---everything seems to be plugged in--what could cause this problem to be worse when the engine is cold--then seems to get better as it warms up and then it will vibrate really bad at the next stop? Somewhat intermittent---but never runs as good as it did before this service. My boss wants me to take it to this repair shop he goes to--he drives new Yukons. He says let them fix it and take Honda the bill. I don't want to do that, but I am getting depressed that I am still paying a note on this thing. I really want to be able to take it to the dealer and when something is under warranty, get it fixed for free. They replaced the motor mount and the driver door motor under my warranty--no deductible. I don't want to have to go to one place to pay to get a diagnosis, then to the dealer to get it fixed under warranty if I can. This is the pits. Can they refuse to cover a major mechanical breakdown under warranty if I don't get all the service from a Honda Dealer? Would taking it to this other shop mess me up with the warranty? I guess the dealer would not have to know--if it was just a screw up on their part and the new shop fixed it. The whole thing is starting to make me mad. And my boss doesn't understand that I don't want to spend the money ($60--I called his shop) when I think Honda should fix it. We pay his car notes, repair and insurance on his company car--I have to pay for my own. Do you think it would be a huge mistake to take it to his shop???

 

I have no idea. If it was me, I would try every angle with Honda because there's a good chance that Honda won't reimburse you for work someone else does. Keep in mind that $60 is only to diagnose the problem. Like I said, demand to talk to a Honda rep if your service manager doesn't agree to have his technicians look at it...it sounds to me like it's something transmission related the more I think about it (if it only does it in drive), so Honda should be bending over backwards to find the problem. Don't accept their BS.