What's The REAL Answer on What Kind of Gas To Use?
#62
Originally Posted by jschmid
That's too funny. h:
Anyhow, that info's more helpful than "do a search" or "you fucking moron" or "up yours asshole" like everyone else is saying.
#63
Originally Posted by skyshock21
Okay, LOTS of misinformation in this thread!
Here's the deal - ALL gas burns equally cleanly - just at different compression ratios. Octane ratings are used to determine at what compression the gas burns completely.
(I might have this next part backwards, I'm sure someone will correct me)
Higher octane fuels will burn completely at higher compression ratios, while lower octane fuels will burn completely at lower compression ratios. Again, I might have that backwards, but that's generally how it works.
If your gas doesn't burn completely, it'll collect in your catalytic converter. If it burns too quickly, it'll make your engine knock.
Basically check your owner's manual to see what the compression ratio of your engine's cylinders are (and which gas they recommend), and don't listen to BS from fairweather mechanics - or (ironically) BS on Internet message boards.
Here's the deal - ALL gas burns equally cleanly - just at different compression ratios. Octane ratings are used to determine at what compression the gas burns completely.
(I might have this next part backwards, I'm sure someone will correct me)
Higher octane fuels will burn completely at higher compression ratios, while lower octane fuels will burn completely at lower compression ratios. Again, I might have that backwards, but that's generally how it works.
If your gas doesn't burn completely, it'll collect in your catalytic converter. If it burns too quickly, it'll make your engine knock.
Basically check your owner's manual to see what the compression ratio of your engine's cylinders are (and which gas they recommend), and don't listen to BS from fairweather mechanics - or (ironically) BS on Internet message boards.
Very nice ANSWER. You would be the only one that wasnt a dick enoug to do so. I was going to answer but you summed it up. If one of you told me that I should use ant less than 93 octaine in my car, i'd laugh in your faces. maybe your dx's need 87, thats why you think it's not worth the money for 93, (cus you cant use it.) The real argument question would be if Mobile and Exxon's gas is better than everyone else's or not....
#64
Originally Posted by skyshock21
Okay, LOTS of misinformation in this thread!
Here's the deal - ALL gas burns equally cleanly - just at different compression ratios. Octane ratings are used to determine at what compression the gas burns completely.
(I might have this next part backwards, I'm sure someone will correct me)
Higher octane fuels will burn completely at higher compression ratios, while lower octane fuels will burn completely at lower compression ratios. Again, I might have that backwards, but that's generally how it works.
If your gas doesn't burn completely, it'll collect in your catalytic converter. If it burns too quickly, it'll make your engine knock.
Basically check your owner's manual to see what the compression ratio of your engine's cylinders are (and which gas they recommend), and don't listen to BS from fairweather mechanics - or (ironically) BS on Internet message boards.
Here's the deal - ALL gas burns equally cleanly - just at different compression ratios. Octane ratings are used to determine at what compression the gas burns completely.
(I might have this next part backwards, I'm sure someone will correct me)
Higher octane fuels will burn completely at higher compression ratios, while lower octane fuels will burn completely at lower compression ratios. Again, I might have that backwards, but that's generally how it works.
If your gas doesn't burn completely, it'll collect in your catalytic converter. If it burns too quickly, it'll make your engine knock.
Basically check your owner's manual to see what the compression ratio of your engine's cylinders are (and which gas they recommend), and don't listen to BS from fairweather mechanics - or (ironically) BS on Internet message boards.
Close, kinda, sorta, not really.
It's not overall compression ratio, it also has to do with where you are timed, what heat range plugs you are using, piston shape, imperfections in your cylinder, all kinds of things, not just compression ratio. I know it's easy to search google for octane and read what how-stuff-works says and misinterpret it, but actually understanding it is different. Without upping boost a bit I can take advantange of MUCH higher octane than recommended by advancing the crap out of my timing(easy to do for me, plug in a laptop, change a few numbers, watch the wideband feedback to make sure it's happy, then set it as final).
Running too high of octane when not tuned for it acts as if you're running rich, while it promotes catalyst deterioration, running high octane won't have the same effect on the cat as running pig rich, oh like a turbo car(I run about 10.8-11:1). If the catalyst can't change it, it simply gets passed through(the reason many turbo cars belch black smoke even when they are tuned right, and the same reason many of them have multiple cats) any residue with get burned off and the cat will run just fine, although over time it will die faster than a relatively lean car. Now passing lead through the cat is a whole different story. Running too high of octane does not cause
As I said, the easiest way to think of timing is a chemical retard. Low octane = more prone to ignite(timing advance) high octane = less prone to ignite(timing retard). Chemical additives can change the ignition point without changing the effective octane, like lead.
#65
Originally Posted by Illegal B16
The real argument question would be if Mobile and Exxon's gas is better than everyone else's or not....
#66
Originally Posted by illusion
Close, kinda, sorta, not really.
It's not overall compression ratio, it also has to do with where you are timed, what heat range plugs you are using, piston shape, imperfections in your cylinder, all kinds of things, not just compression ratio. I know it's easy to search google for octane and read what how-stuff-works says and misinterpret it, but actually understanding it is different. Without upping boost a bit I can take advantange of MUCH higher octane than recommended by advancing the crap out of my timing(easy to do for me, plug in a laptop, change a few numbers, watch the wideband feedback to make sure it's happy, then set it as final).
Running too high of octane when not tuned for it acts as if you're running rich, while it promotes catalyst deterioration, running high octane won't have the same effect on the cat as running pig rich, oh like a turbo car(I run about 10.8-11:1). If the catalyst can't change it, it simply gets passed through(the reason many turbo cars belch black smoke even when they are tuned right, and the same reason many of them have multiple cats) any residue with get burned off and the cat will run just fine, although over time it will die faster than a relatively lean car. Now passing lead through the cat is a whole different story. Running too high of octane does not cause
As I said, the easiest way to think of timing is a chemical retard. Low octane = more prone to ignite(timing advance) high octane = less prone to ignite(timing retard). Chemical additives can change the ignition point without changing the effective octane, like lead.
It's not overall compression ratio, it also has to do with where you are timed, what heat range plugs you are using, piston shape, imperfections in your cylinder, all kinds of things, not just compression ratio. I know it's easy to search google for octane and read what how-stuff-works says and misinterpret it, but actually understanding it is different. Without upping boost a bit I can take advantange of MUCH higher octane than recommended by advancing the crap out of my timing(easy to do for me, plug in a laptop, change a few numbers, watch the wideband feedback to make sure it's happy, then set it as final).
Running too high of octane when not tuned for it acts as if you're running rich, while it promotes catalyst deterioration, running high octane won't have the same effect on the cat as running pig rich, oh like a turbo car(I run about 10.8-11:1). If the catalyst can't change it, it simply gets passed through(the reason many turbo cars belch black smoke even when they are tuned right, and the same reason many of them have multiple cats) any residue with get burned off and the cat will run just fine, although over time it will die faster than a relatively lean car. Now passing lead through the cat is a whole different story. Running too high of octane does not cause
As I said, the easiest way to think of timing is a chemical retard. Low octane = more prone to ignite(timing advance) high octane = less prone to ignite(timing retard). Chemical additives can change the ignition point without changing the effective octane, like lead.
#67
Originally Posted by jschmid
NP=No Problem. A lot of guys got on your for not searching before 98CoupeV6...and I think because he knows your history he wasn't going to go to the effort of typing out info that can be found by searching.
Hey man, I tried to help you back in the day (you'd have to search under one of your old user names...not sure why you keep changing it) and eventually trying to reason with you just gets frustrating. Hence why this thread is on page two, and there is an answer for you found early on page one.
Hey man, I tried to help you back in the day (you'd have to search under one of your old user names...not sure why you keep changing it) and eventually trying to reason with you just gets frustrating. Hence why this thread is on page two, and there is an answer for you found early on page one.
But I digress. Hey Schmidt, you did nothing to "help" me back in the day----all you do is verbally gang-rape people who do not happen to agree with you or who simply dont (in your eyes) "GET SOMETHING".....if the degree of your assistance is measured by the behavior of your peers in here, I wouldnt know whether to take that as a compliment or not....and its none of your business why I keep changing my screen name; bottom line is, you STILL CANNOT ANSWER the question regarding the correct kind of fuel that should be pumped into this vehicle.....bottom line. :doh:
#68
Originally Posted by 98CoupeV6
Jumped down your throat? I told you to use the search function for chrissake, and not even in a harsh manner. Grow up a little sheltered?
And you can figure out what gas I use by using the search function, conventiently located at the upper right hand corner of the forum index.
And you can figure out what gas I use by using the search function, conventiently located at the upper right hand corner of the forum index.
Refuse to tell me what kind of gas you use out of pride, eh? Just out of pride.....so fascinating.....you'll just keep telling me to use the search button instead of telling me what the Accord V-6 SHOULD run on......and you called ME sheltered???? NOW THAT IS FUCKING FUNNY DUDE!!!! :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:
#69
So, other fellow Sixth Generation V6 owners......what do you guys use or recommend as a bottom line, because as I said this EXHAUSTIVELY already, I have misplaced the owners manual since relocating to a new city.....should we be using REGULAR UNLEADED?
If someone could give me a definite yes or no, it would be greatly appreciated at this point, with no further flaming necessary. Thank you in advance.
If someone could give me a definite yes or no, it would be greatly appreciated at this point, with no further flaming necessary. Thank you in advance.
#70
Originally Posted by DJ Scotty II
So, other fellow Sixth Generation V6 owners......what do you guys use or recommend as a bottom line, because as I said this EXHAUSTIVELY already, I have misplaced the owners manual since relocating to a new city.....should we be using REGULAR UNLEADED?
If someone could give me a definite yes or no, it would be greatly appreciated at this point, with no further flaming necessary. Thank you in advance.
If someone could give me a definite yes or no, it would be greatly appreciated at this point, with no further flaming necessary. Thank you in advance.
why don't you go out and buy a new owners manual if you want to know for "sure", why don't you go out and get a Hanes manual and read up on how the accord works. you might actually learn something.(thats a novel concept):doh: