not have to.. f22 turbo's can hold their own.

id much rather have a 270hp boosted f22 on 14psi then a 270 hp boosted h22 7psi. f22's are stout engines, h22 ringlands are pooo.

f22 blocks are a dime a dozen, h22's arent...

 

whats cheaper putting turbo? or getting a h22? which would be faster/ get a better jump on the strip

 

f22 blocks are poo. Good luck boosting 14 psi on a stock bottom end. Either engine you will have to rebuild to handle the boost but 14 psi on a crap f series vs. h series is a whole lot of difference. Yeah, you can work with what you got but you can't squeeze much out of a crappy motor to begin with.

 

i suppose that bisi-moto's worlds fastest SOHC honda was built of the shittiest platform? he sure "squeezed" out a hell of alot.

over at accordinglydone.com and cb7tuner.com there are quite a few f22 accords boosted and they've been boosted for a while now many of them running over 10psi daily and 14-16psi at the track.

14psi was a high boost figure, 10psi daily driven can be done easily.
stock 8.8:1 CR w/ iron sleeve at 14psi vs. stock 10.6:1 at 7psi with FRM sleeves and poopy ring lands, even at 'high boost' 14psi id still put my money on the f22 lasting longer as long as it was tuned conservatively/properly.

dont forget just to get an h22 in to an accord alone will cost rougly $2500. my f22 turbo setup i am piecing together is adding up to be about $1600 (w/ crome or uberdata engine management). f22 with a conservative 10psi will own a NA h22 w/ bolt ons any day and cost less.

ok its not fair to compare a force inducted engine to an NA one. a stock h22 + turbo setup, lets say for simplicty a drag h22 turbo kit (ditch the FMU and go with crome/uberdata) will cost roughly $5500-6000 for motor and turbo. with an f-series you already got one in the bay and w/ $5500-6000 you could have a fully built block to handle more then just 14psi, ported and worked head, a Web or custom grind cam, an AEM EMS to tune and have an extra f22 block for backup.

if you knew anything about f series blocks you'd know the block designs are very similar in comparison to 92-96 h-series (which is why theres has been a new craze recently with h-series DOHC heads on f22/f23 blocks aka 'g23' frankensteins) aside from iron sleeves and the obvious open/closed deck, CR, bore, stroke, crank, oil/coolant drains, etc. now if you want to up the CR in the F22, w/ iron sleeves you can run a resonable piston at max service overbore. if you grenade it you could sleeve it or just buy another F series block for 250 bucks, cant say the same about FRM h22's, even with the Wiseco\Manley "FRM friendly" pistons they are still pieces of shit and probably fail faster than stock iron sleeves w/ forged pistons. h22 short blocks arent a dime a dozen either.

ill agree with one thing though the f22 heads are crappy and cant flow nearly as well as h-series. that is why people are experimenting with the "g23" frankenstein setups, a good flowing DOHC h-head with a low CR, iron sleeved block that is a dime a dozen.

 

Holy shit this is one long post!

 

Long, but I couldn't agree more. By the way, bonestock, what head are you gonna build up for your project. Are you goin for the H22 Dohc or the F22 Sohc? Im just tryin to find out what would be better for me.

 

stock head with a port/plenum matched h23 62mm throttle body/intake mani. if i have money then maybe a light p&p.

 

whats the highest youve seen an f22 auto tranny boosted for daily driving thatll prolly last about 70,000 miles.

 

none.... boost on an auto tranny and you are asking for trouble.... stock accord trannies (auto) can barely handle stock power... not a good idea

 

none. high hp, auto tranny, and lasting all dont belong together with hondas. chose only 2.

high hp and auto tranny = not lasting so long
high hp and lasting long = not an auto tranny
auto tranny and lasting long = not high hp

you should have that logic embedded in your head by now.