LordAccord, so if you say that the AGX's won't do a good job at dampening these springs, does that mean I should set them at a higher damper level? I'm still a bit confused about how to set it up, but I need to install tomorrow because my blown suspension is way too anoying squeaking all the time. So I'm kind of going a little nuts trying to get some good tips before I leave work, and praying for good weather tomorrow.

 

Hey bro. Like I said, I would not recommend using the AGXs with those springs at all, but if you are going to, then you're just going to have to mess with the settings until you get something that feels right. I'm guessing it's going to be quite high, yes, but I can't be sure because it's not my car, and I don't know what a good ride is to you. You're probably going to get a little more bounce than you'd really like when you are at a lower setting on the shocks.

I could be wrong, but hey, I've seen what I've seen. Been at it a while.

What's up CalB

 

get the balljoints
i have both and initially i bought the anchor bolts thinking it would do the trick. i even got the steep angle (like 3 degrees or something) ones because i lowered my car a lot.
they didn't do shit, even with taking it to the shop they couldn't work with it.
my control arm was getting hung up on my fender where it mounts/welded to the frame and i ended up having to get the ball joints so they'd clear.

 

wow, now thats why i didnt feel a difference when i set my agx's to the max (4) and to what i have now which is two...

oh well, pretty good for what i padi for...

 

sell the agx's and fork out alittle more and get illuminas. :thumbup:

 

or not...

 

...and wait for them to blow, and then buy illuminas or yellows. or buy them now and install when the AGXs blow. or buy and install them now. i think that covers all the options, from worst to first.

 

I've got the balljoint camber kit up front, bolt/washer in the rear. I was on H&R sport + koni yellows, and the camber kit/control arms were hitting the wheel wells like mad. i'm on stock alloys, and there was no gap between the tires and the wheel wells. The SPC ball joint camber kits add a lot of thickness above the control arm, so there's a lot less clearance. before i got the shocks, and was just running on H&R sport + stock shocks, i was told by a mobile alignment dude that my camber kit was already dialed all the way out. my car still had like -1.75 degree camber in the front, on each side. i don't honestly remember the range on my camber kit, but if what the alignment guy said was true, it's not very good.

the bolt/anchor camber kits will hit the frame, like you said. to get around that, you bend the frame at that point, or shave down the A-arm on the suspension. neither is a good idea, in my opinion, but if ball joint kits won't let you adjust that much, it may be your only option.

 

The best way to get around control arm hitting is to adjust the kit only to the point that still clears, and let that be it. Beating the fender in sucks from a damage and resale value standpoint. Shaving the control arm can work to a slim extent, and it doesn't necesarilly decrease integrity if you don't just try to hack off half of it. But If you have a high degree anchor bolt kit adjusted out all the way, chances are it's going to hit. It's just not feesible to do it like that; when it gets down to it, you're probably going to have to deal with some negative camber. -2 is better than -3.5. Just get some good tires and keep your rotations up, and at some point (if you have uni-directional tires), remount your tires to rotate them across the car.

It's all part of lowering. If you don't like it, you're going to have to have someone engineer you control arms that make it perfect for your application. And based on the number of people that don't even have the money for a camber kit, that's not gonna happen.