M10 x 1.25 pitch bolts are the ones to get. I got ones 50 mm long, but if you need more correction, get 60 mm. Stock is 40 or 45mm.

Here are those links:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...camber+bolt%2A
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...camber+bolt%2A
http://whiteaccord94.homestead.com/HOWTOs.html
http://board.hondasociety.com/showth...camber+bolt%2A

i put my konis on full soft w/my pro-kits, and it rides like stock. of course it doesn't handle as well as it could, but i'm not racing anyone. it still handles better than before.

 

you should browse in the suspension forum on H-T. although alot of them are a bunch of arrogant JDM nazi pricks they have some decent info on there. someone recently posted shock dynos on AGXs vs Koni Yellows vs Tokico Illuminas vs many other strut/true coilovers and the AGX's results werent looking so great compared to their competition's results.

 

good info there, bonestock.

for those who are lazy: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1104049

 

Yeah, I saw that thread already, but I didn't really understand what the hell I was looking at and didn't feel like sitting there to figure out how to read all that

My point right now is, no matter how they ride, They should still feel like a million (exagerated) times better than my stock blown shocks, RIGHT? And with the skunk2s in there, it should still be a nicer, quieter ride. (Blown shocks, and messed up coilover sleeves are EXTREMELY noisy)

And my question now becomes as to the rumor of the AGX's blowing on cars with more than an inch drop. Anyone else know about that? I'm definately dropping over an inch. I'm not sure, but I think it's about a 1.5 drop that I am going for.

for 1.5 inch drop 3 washers and 50mm bolts should work right?

Anybody with the AGX shocks... to what setting do you have yours on? I'm going for the 1.5 drop and don't want a completely stock ride, nor a back breaking ride. It's a daily driver. Suggestions. They are going on with skunk2s.

 

Will the bolt and washer trick work on a 4th gen. too? Seing as how the suspension components are about identical to the 5th gen. components. My rear camber is not horibbly bad but I would like to return it back to the way it belongs, or as close as I can get it. If the trick works on the 4th gen, I think I will just do it when I go to replace the hardware in my drums.

 

I'm guessing that it would. You would have to take it to get aligned afterwards anyways. I think I read somewhere that the bolt and washer trick will affect the toe as well. I think I'm going to put in the washer and bolt, and then a shop to put in the front camber kit since I don't want to deal with the hassle of pressing it in, and then just get it aligned.

 

It's been a long time since I've posted actively anywhere, but I've been at this for quite a while. I used to moderate suspension over at HS and my FAQ thread still crops up on random messageboards throughout the community, despite how old it is. So I try to say this with some credibility, despite a post count of 4.

Those skunk2s are going to be pretty stiff for you, they are notorious for it. In fact, I would not personally pair them to KYB AGXs because I don't think the AGXs do nearly as well of a job dampening them as Illuminas or Koni Yellows would.

You really need to get your suspension to the height you want and then see where you stand for allignment, because if it's not too extreme of a drop and you end up NOT needing the front kit, you will probably save a little hassle by not putting it in.

This is the order that I usually recommend doing it in... a good alignment shop should be willing to work with you on this:

Springs / Shocks
Alignment
Camber correction
Alignment

Going back to your earlier questions, don't ever worry about the difference between shocks and struts. Hondas don't use "struts in the front and shocks in the back" for any of the cars we drive. They are struts, all around, simply because they are encased in the spring. Anymore the terms are used interchangably because so many people don't know or care that there's a difference anyways. If you really want to dodge the issue alltogether, just say Dampers and be done with it. Bottom line, you can't order the wrong thing for your car, so it doesn't really matter what you call it.

You probably need to do a little more research before you just jump into this ordering whatever looks good. You can still end up with a ride you don't like. If you're going for something that feels nice, the way your heading isn't going to get you there.

 

Seems like you might know what you are talking about. How would you recomend for me to set the damper on the shocks then? If the springs are that hard should I make the shocks as soft as possible?

 

LordAccord definitely knows what he's doing. he's a suspension guru. i consulted with him a bit about my setup before going through with it. good guy.

i followed his order of installation/alignments because that first alignment is cheaper than buying a camber kit that you don't need and installing it. find out if you really do need correction first and correct the toe (which will kills tires more quickly than camber) with the alignment, then buy a kit if the camber is off.

 

Yeah, I got an alignment a couple of months ago, and they told me that the front definately needed the camber kit where it's sitting at right now, which is almost the same place I'm going to drop it to with the new suspension tomorrow.