picture of trunk without liner...
#21
Originally Posted by kmcaprice14
You always could mount you amps on the back of your fold down rear seat. I have 2 audiobahn 800W amps back there and it looks great and has no clearance issues with the seat up. I use them to push two 12s, which are in a sealed box directly behind the back seat which still allows me use of my trunk. To do the mount, take off the fabric from the back of the seat (it clips on), and mount a .25 or .5 inch plywood sheet to the back of your seat using rubber washers and 1 inch self tapping screws. Then recover the back of the seat with the fabric, and mount your amps on top of the fabric over the sheet... you can run the wires underneath the fabric too, and it makes for a sweet install.... Just offering an alternative that wont cause your amps to overheat in the tire well.
I have done that method. I didnt really like it cause at the time I was always shoving skis and snow boards in my trunk and the backseat needed to be flipped down.
Once this storm clears through I will strip my trunk and investigate.
#22
Originally Posted by kmcaprice14
Just offering an alternative that wont cause your amps to overheat in the tire well.
#23
I put an amp under both front seats in my prelude. They have NEVER over heated. Having them under the set saves alot of room, and you use way less power cable. Sony amps tend to get pretty hot though. It's a tight fit in the Prelude, but accords prolly have a little more clearence. I don't know about accords, but a lot of preludes get moisture around those vents. I ended up sealing those vents up because when bass hits the rubber flaps well.......flap quite loudly. A good rule of thumb for amps is "out of sight, out out mind."
#24
i also have my 4 channel up under my front passenger seat, and no problems... thats because there is airflow there, not the stagnant air of a covered spare tire well. So confined spaces really dont matter at all as long as there is air flow to the amps to remove the heat generated by the amp itself
#25
Originally Posted by kmcaprice14
i also have my 4 channel up under my front passenger seat, and no problems... thats because there is airflow there, not the stagnant air of a covered spare tire well. So confined spaces really dont matter at all as long as there is air flow to the amps to remove the heat generated by the amp itself
anyways, the 5th gen apparently can fit a full-size spare tire in the spare tire well. the bracket that secures the spare tire has some instructions on how to mount a full-size spare on it. i haven't tried, because i don't have an extra full-size stock wheel sitting around. i wonder if the extra size of the tire will be enough to support the sagging trunk lining.......
#26
i can solve your problem for under $20.
go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a sheet (or two) of 1/2" particle board or plywood, and 2-3 hinges. take out your current OEM board, and use it as a template to trace the shapes onto the new thicker board. cut out the 2 pieces with a jigsaw. attach the hinges, and you're done.
you might want to spray on some polyurethane to help weatherproof it, especially if you have a damp or leaky trunk.
go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a sheet (or two) of 1/2" particle board or plywood, and 2-3 hinges. take out your current OEM board, and use it as a template to trace the shapes onto the new thicker board. cut out the 2 pieces with a jigsaw. attach the hinges, and you're done.
you might want to spray on some polyurethane to help weatherproof it, especially if you have a damp or leaky trunk.
#27
Originally Posted by gutterslide
i can solve your problem for under $20.
go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a sheet (or two) of 1/2" particle board or plywood, and 2-3 hinges. take out your current OEM board, and use it as a template to trace the shapes onto the new thicker board. cut out the 2 pieces with a jigsaw. attach the hinges, and you're done.
you might want to spray on some polyurethane to help weatherproof it, especially if you have a damp or leaky trunk.
go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a sheet (or two) of 1/2" particle board or plywood, and 2-3 hinges. take out your current OEM board, and use it as a template to trace the shapes onto the new thicker board. cut out the 2 pieces with a jigsaw. attach the hinges, and you're done.
you might want to spray on some polyurethane to help weatherproof it, especially if you have a damp or leaky trunk.
#28
Originally Posted by mayonaise
i was thinking about that too. it'll hold up for a while, but it still won't be supported from underneath. when you have a big heavy sub plus an amp sitting on it 24/7, it'll start sagging eventually, even with thicker wood.
edit- i don't know what it's called. it's like an I beam, but shaped like an L. like what's on the corner of this cabinet.