a/c question
#1
a/c question
hi guys, i have a 2000 v6 accord, about 46K miles on it. My air conditioning was working fine until the heat wave just hit in so cal. it went out today i was wondering if anyone knew what the problem might be.
the symptoms: air blows, but it's hot air; doesnt get cool after blowing for an hour; when it's on, i hear this hissing sound that sounds like its coming from near the front passenger side of the engine bay, the hissing sound gradually disappears about 10sec. after i turn off the a/c. any ideas?
the symptoms: air blows, but it's hot air; doesnt get cool after blowing for an hour; when it's on, i hear this hissing sound that sounds like its coming from near the front passenger side of the engine bay, the hissing sound gradually disappears about 10sec. after i turn off the a/c. any ideas?
#3
You might just be feeling vented air, although you state a hissing sound, really the way to check is see if your compressor is engaging by looking at the clutch. As far as a hissing sound, believe it or not, sometimes that settling noise is normal, but that's on a fully charged working system, I forget what the principle behind it is. You might want to check and see if you can find an oily residue or like a coating of debrie (usually black) around any of the a/c lines. That might help you to pin point a leak.
If you wanna make a drive up to Sacramento, CA, I'll be happy to check it for ya for free, would have to be on a Tuesday or Thursday night.
If you wanna make a drive up to Sacramento, CA, I'll be happy to check it for ya for free, would have to be on a Tuesday or Thursday night.
#4
New accord dont use Freon- I think its called something else......
Even then with the Hot weather once you turn it on and start driving thats when it cools down the interior.
If you have to wait a long time then chances are like AccordGirl said you might be leaking "freon" ... I think its like R 12 or something
Even then with the Hot weather once you turn it on and start driving thats when it cools down the interior.
If you have to wait a long time then chances are like AccordGirl said you might be leaking "freon" ... I think its like R 12 or something
#5
Originally Posted by flyromeo3
New accord dont use Freon- I think its called something else......
Even then with the Hot weather once you turn it on and start driving thats when it cools down the interior.
If you have to wait a long time then chances are like AccordGirl said you might be leaking "freon" ... I think its like R 12 or something
Even then with the Hot weather once you turn it on and start driving thats when it cools down the interior.
If you have to wait a long time then chances are like AccordGirl said you might be leaking "freon" ... I think its like R 12 or something
#6
Freon is a generic name (made by Dupoint) for R-12.
R-12 was a mandated stop production after the end of 1995, per the Monteral Protocol, and the replacement in industry is usually R-134a...and the generic name for it is Suva (also named by Dupoint). There are blends out there of the two "refrigerants" (what they are really) and R-22 (the refrigerant used in frigerators), but they are very uncommon. Considering you said you have a 2000, I am 110% sure your system is a R-134a system. Like I said, you may be only feeling vented air, and you really have to see if your system is actually engaging the clutch or not, yes low refrigerant can cause little cold air output, but your saying it takes a long time for it, so I am wondering if you are just feeling cold air from the vent and the compressor is not engaging.
And by the way...us 5th Gen A/C users got it bad as the idiot that designed our system was on crack the day he did, very inefficient a/c, and plus I got a black car, so add more heat load to that and you got basically very little cold air output.
R-12 was a mandated stop production after the end of 1995, per the Monteral Protocol, and the replacement in industry is usually R-134a...and the generic name for it is Suva (also named by Dupoint). There are blends out there of the two "refrigerants" (what they are really) and R-22 (the refrigerant used in frigerators), but they are very uncommon. Considering you said you have a 2000, I am 110% sure your system is a R-134a system. Like I said, you may be only feeling vented air, and you really have to see if your system is actually engaging the clutch or not, yes low refrigerant can cause little cold air output, but your saying it takes a long time for it, so I am wondering if you are just feeling cold air from the vent and the compressor is not engaging.
And by the way...us 5th Gen A/C users got it bad as the idiot that designed our system was on crack the day he did, very inefficient a/c, and plus I got a black car, so add more heat load to that and you got basically very little cold air output.
#7
Originally Posted by mohamed_ibrah
Freon is a generic name (made by Dupoint) for R-12.
R-12 was a mandated stop production after the end of 1995, per the Monteral Protocol, and the replacement in industry is usually R-134a...and the generic name for it is Suva (also named by Dupoint). There are blends out there of the two "refrigerants" (what they are really) and R-22 (the refrigerant used in frigerators), but they are very uncommon. Considering you said you have a 2000, I am 110% sure your system is a R-134a system. Like I said, you may be only feeling vented air, and you really have to see if your system is actually engaging the clutch or not, yes low refrigerant can cause little cold air output, but your saying it takes a long time for it, so I am wondering if you are just feeling cold air from the vent and the compressor is not engaging.
And by the way...us 5th Gen A/C users got it bad as the idiot that designed our system was on crack the day he did, very inefficient a/c, and plus I got a black car, so add more heat load to that and you got basically very little cold air output.
R-12 was a mandated stop production after the end of 1995, per the Monteral Protocol, and the replacement in industry is usually R-134a...and the generic name for it is Suva (also named by Dupoint). There are blends out there of the two "refrigerants" (what they are really) and R-22 (the refrigerant used in frigerators), but they are very uncommon. Considering you said you have a 2000, I am 110% sure your system is a R-134a system. Like I said, you may be only feeling vented air, and you really have to see if your system is actually engaging the clutch or not, yes low refrigerant can cause little cold air output, but your saying it takes a long time for it, so I am wondering if you are just feeling cold air from the vent and the compressor is not engaging.
And by the way...us 5th Gen A/C users got it bad as the idiot that designed our system was on crack the day he did, very inefficient a/c, and plus I got a black car, so add more heat load to that and you got basically very little cold air output.
Whoa, how do you know so much stuff?
So if my compressor's not engaging, does it mean i have to get it replaced? i've heard that can get expensive, like $300-$1000. hopefully not...i think i'm getting it checked out tomorrow.
#8
also, check the air mix motor. if it went bunk in the heat mode this could cause the problem.
second thought. if the air it is blowing doesn't get hotter when the car warms up, my theory proves itself to be a theory as it has been proven wrong. in that case, your out of HFC stuff.
second thought. if the air it is blowing doesn't get hotter when the car warms up, my theory proves itself to be a theory as it has been proven wrong. in that case, your out of HFC stuff.
#10
Originally Posted by sleepyx637
Whoa, how do you know so much stuff?
I have under my belt so far: basic maintenance, Suspension & Steering, Brakes, and A/C.
So if my compressor's not engaging, does it mean i have to get it replaced? i've heard that can get expensive, like $300-$1000. hopefully not...i think i'm getting it checked out tomorrow.
1) Low refrigerant = not enough pressure, and a sensor detects this so it won't turn on
2) Shorted wire to compressor clutch
3) RPM sensor (safety sensor to prevent belt lock up in case the clutch seizes over and locks up)
4) Problematic cycling switch
5) Control head electrical problem
etc...list goes on
more than likely, you got a leak somewhere, you have low refrigerant, your clutch won't engage as a result of low refrigerant, the supposed "cold" air you feel, is simply vent air. A complete remanf. Nippondenso compressor (including clutch) is about $250-$300, if you look around, I buy my parts from this website and they have held up quite nicely. If they are going to open up your system to fix a leak...and they recommend changing the reciever-dryer, do it, that dessicant can only hold so much moisture from air, until it goes bad, and opening up a system, puts a serious load on there.