hmmm ok seems like a lotta work, i am unsure what you mean by Plenum, so I would have to take off the TB inorder to access it? Aint that a bitch.... I took the TB off a month ago to fix my Idle probelm. BTW... sorry your right, it is a clip but the clip is held on by a screw, thats what I was meaning.

Thanks for the quick reply

 

Sorry, intake plenum is the name for the uh..."black tubing" that goes from the air box to the TB. No you do not remove the TB. The water valve is just underneath that.

Part #27 (the huge long thing), comes off attached to the upper housing of the airbox Part #1 as one piece.


The water valve is just underneath that, part #1 (it will be black). Trust me, it's very easy and worth a shot. The picture is flipped so don't let it confuse you.



I might be able to meet you somewhere in town and show you, I won't do it because it'll be hot as hell to touch that valve, I did mine on a cold engine.

 

Ok I went ahead and took a look under the hood. Very easy to spot part number 1. Before I do anything I just want make sure I am doing this right.

I get the first part turn the nob in my car all the way to cool, then i go under my hood and do I unscrew the part on number 1 that holds the wire in place to loosen it.... and then turn that counterclockwise all the way tell it stops... then hook back up the wire thing and screw it down?

 

Eh close enough...it's the screw down part, that bother's me...hehe, it's clip down .

Now if it was misadjusted, it will help lower the vent temp by a couple of degrees. If there is still a problem with hot temp out the duct, let me know.

 

Ok I am thinking I did this wrong I went to my car today....

Turned the temp knob to cold
Opened the hood
Went to part number one, undid the loop
I noticed that the thing that the loop was connected to said shut. I am assumeing thats what you wanted me to do (Counterclockwise) So I did that.
Put the loop back on.
Started the car turned on the AC for about 5-8 mins
And the air seemed a few degrees cooler then the outside temp.

While the car was running with the AC since what I did didnt work I went back to part number one and turned it clockwise..... which made no temp difference when I went back into the car.

Heres the part I closed and then later opened it because it wasnt working for me.

 

I might want to add that upon closing the valve with the loop attached the metal wire did infact seem to move out of the black tube its in and then when the valve was opened the wire went back into the black tube.

 

It's supposed to do that, that's normal. What it sounds like to me is your a/c is not engaging. Sometimes people get fooled into thinking their a/c is working, but all you get is air out the vent.

Is your a/c in fact engaging (do you feel, hear, see the clutch engage)? If it is, and your getting still somewhat warm air, you might have something else that is a problem. With my current Honda, I leaked checked the system and no leaks where detected, but it was a bit undercharged, so I simply evacuated, vaccumed for 30 minutes, and recharged with a bit more refrigerant to get into the specs range.

If it's not engaging, you have a problem, usually a leak is the most common occurence with all the refrigerant haven been leaked completely out (a/c compressors won't engage below a certain amount of refrigerant as a safety precaution).

I guess that's the first start is see if it is engaging or not.

By the way, that heater valve allows coolant into your heater core. If you opened it up, obviously hot coolant will flow to the heater core and you get hot air out the vents. Not to insult your intelligence, but the temperature knob controls that valve so that when you want cool air, it shuts off the valve and obviously keeping it open will do no good in cool air performance. By adjusting it, trust me you did good. That was the last place I looked when I was looking at my a/c performance and I noticed it by chance one night when the night air was cool outside and the inner vents inside the car was bringing out warmer air.

 

Ok to answer the first question.... the a/c had to have been engaging from what you discribed because from the inside of the car you can hear it engage. I honestly believe I have no leaks... I have never seen anything drip where I have parked and from doing my oil changes, I have seen no signs of residue coming down as well.

Now..... when toying with the knob part... when i turned it to cool, I already had the valve your talking about and told me to do shut. But when I was messing with the knob, since it wasnt working anyway, I wanted to make sure my heater was atleast working. So I turned the knob to the hot side with the AC off.... went outside and from what I saw, the valve didnt turn itself to open. By turning it by hand tho, thats when I saw the loop go in and out as said earlier.

Thank you so much for helping me understand my AC system. I lack deeply in this area knowledge wise. BTW I used to work at Honda, but only as a lube tech.

I hope what I have said helps you out.

 

Most of this stuff depends on what year car you have. Macster33, I looked for that but I don't see where you said what year??

On our '98 the temperature dial on the dashboard is just a control knob. When you turn on the ignition, there's a little motor that actually moves the cable. So I can do what I want with the knob & nothing happens at the valve. Until I turn on the key...

 

I agree, and I don't quite understand what you wrote down as you already "shut the valve"? It's really not a good idea to move it by hand if the loop is still attached.

So if indeed the clutch is engaging, and you've shut off the water heater valve, and you feel warm air out the vent...then something is wrong such as (yes I know you don't have a leak, neither did I) refrigerant has somewhat leaked out; a good amount had leaked out my accord (1995). It could also be overcharged too...had a backyard mechanic bring in a GMC Jimmy one day with about 2 lbs overcharged. So damn surprised that his compressor didn't implode. He also had a large amount of oil in the system and it literally oozed out the fittings when I disconnected the service hoses off the a/c ports (the a/c machine sucked a large amount out, but there was still quite a large amount in the system still).

At this point, it would need diagnostics by a professional, to check charge level, high and low side pressures, contamination, etc.