confusd abotu the 60k tune up
#4
this is straight off their site:
Services to be performed:
- Replace engine oil.
- Rotate tires.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front and rear brakes.
- Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage.
- Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts.
- Check brake lining (or shoes) for cracking, glazing, wear and contamination.
- Check wheel cylinders for leaks.
- Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brakes) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brakes).
- Inspect tie- rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
- Check steering linkage for looseness.
- Check fluid lines for damage and leaks.
- Check condition of rack boots.
- Inspect suspension components.
- Check bolts for tightness.
- Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
- Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness.
- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.
- Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid.
- Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
- Check for damage, leaks and deterioration.
- Check for proper fan operation.
- Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
- Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks.
- Replace air cleaner element.
- Inspect and adjust drive belts.
- Replace air conditioning filter.
- Replace spark plugs (if applicable).
Services to be performed:
- Replace engine oil.
- Rotate tires.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front and rear brakes.
- Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage.
- Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts.
- Check brake lining (or shoes) for cracking, glazing, wear and contamination.
- Check wheel cylinders for leaks.
- Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brakes) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brakes).
- Inspect tie- rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
- Check steering linkage for looseness.
- Check fluid lines for damage and leaks.
- Check condition of rack boots.
- Inspect suspension components.
- Check bolts for tightness.
- Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
- Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness.
- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.
- Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid.
- Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
- Check for damage, leaks and deterioration.
- Check for proper fan operation.
- Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
- Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks.
- Replace air cleaner element.
- Inspect and adjust drive belts.
- Replace air conditioning filter.
- Replace spark plugs (if applicable).
#6
I just hit 60K on my '96 AV6 and was gonna do a 60k tune-up but my dad's friend, a mechanic at Toyota for like 20 yrs said that it can be done at 70K. 90K seems a little long, especially at the threat of messing up the engine if the timing belt breaks. Just my 2 cents. But I do agree, it also depends on how hard you drive it.
#7
How hard you drive a car has nothing to do with the timing belt. This is not a wear item (like brakes, tires, etc), it detroriates over time. Depending on environmental factors, it can last forever or break early. I always replace mine at 60k (I don't replace the water pump - don't believe in fixing stuff that ain't broke). I recommend replacing it early, only because, the timing belt is one of the few items that, when it goes, can take your whole engine with it. It's just not worth the risk IMHO.
I guess if the car is relatively new, with high mileage, I'd wait 'till 90K. But if it's got a few years on it - and the other belts are starting to look old, I'd probably change it. I realize that Honda recommends 90K, but my mother-in-law followed that advice with her Civic and wound up with a dead car. You gotta remember, when you're selling a car (as in new), marketing it as not having to make a major repair until later in the car's life, is a selling point. But once you've got the car, and you're past 50K (powertrain warranty), Honda could care less whether or not your timing belt snaps.
I guess if the car is relatively new, with high mileage, I'd wait 'till 90K. But if it's got a few years on it - and the other belts are starting to look old, I'd probably change it. I realize that Honda recommends 90K, but my mother-in-law followed that advice with her Civic and wound up with a dead car. You gotta remember, when you're selling a car (as in new), marketing it as not having to make a major repair until later in the car's life, is a selling point. But once you've got the car, and you're past 50K (powertrain warranty), Honda could care less whether or not your timing belt snaps.
#8
I just got a quote for mine for the 60k tune up @ $415. I was like "Wow!". My car is a 98 4cyl 5spd and after reading the above post by mike6024....it just seems to be a lot of checking and no replacing. So my question is would it make a difference if I got all the checking done at a local meachanic shop for cheaper?
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