Boost the C1...to get a C5 to receive boost and not detonate you need to lower the compression ratio...and to do that you ruin what makes a C5 special in the first place.

 

D16Y8 only lightly modded

she may not be much on a straightaway, but she can match anybody in the hills

 

my y8 has i/h/e,ignition(sci,cap and coil), 10.3mm wires, crower cam with a hayame gear and an SAFC(2nd gen, the best one).

 

Some things: I wouldn't even buy an Eagle crank unless I was loaded. The Honda crank is fine. I also wouldn't touch a blockguard unless I was willing to rebore + wield it in.

I wouldn't go that low with the compression ratio because a 1.6L with that low a compression will suck ass. I'd rather use ACL bearings because that's what lots of guys use (as do I.)

 

I have a d16y7 and I am looking to purchase a JR supercharger for it. Is there any that should be installed with the JR to prevent disaster on the D.

 

You mean... will suck ass until the turbo spools... A well sized turbo and proper fuel management will solve any driveability problems associated with low compression. Higher compression engines may idle better and have more low end torque, but they have less room for making power because of the fuels we're limited to using. You're right about it sucking if you autocross, though. In a straight line, my money's on high boost-low compression.

I'm a boost junkie. I couldn't stand limiting myself to 7 PSI for fear that I'll blow a head gasket or break a crank, and compared to the cost of a whole new engine, that crank isn't really that expensive. You CAN'T run sick boost levels on the stock Honda crank. Maybe 7-9 PSI for a little while, but it's not beefy enough to handle it over time. That may be fine for some, it wouldn't be for ME for what I'd want to do to it because 7-9 PSI in a well tuned civic still won't whip up on that many cars. It will destroy some, but not the ones that I'm after.

I'm talkin' 18+ PSI which could produce ridiculous numbers... and boost like that without low compression isn't a very good idea unless you've got an enormous intercooler, and an unobtanium head gasket. The block I was describing would probably hold 20~24 PSI, and for that, you'd HAVE to have an Eagle crank because the D series rotating assembly is so tiny and lightweight... Hey, at least it's ALL forged unlike alot of other MFR's OEM crap, so it's not all bad.

D series floating combustion chambers wander around and warp like hell when you increase the cylinder pressure (supercharger, turbo, N2O), I don't think they're well suited for reliable turbo applications without modifications... But that's my opinion. The cost of machining one for a sleeve makes the B or H series a lot more practical, but those blocks have their shortcomings with turbo setups as well. They to need to be sleeved for what's considered high boost pressures or else they'll eventually leave a steaming oily turd on the tarmac.

The place I get my bearings from has really good deals on Clevites, and I'm a cheap bastard sometimes. Clevites are better than most stock bearings. It all comes down to preference, really. ACL is an excelent choice as well. Might even be better than Clevites, but I'm not sponsored yet.

I guess what I'm saying is that bolting a turbo kit on isn't the end-all mod for civics like some treat it. It will give a little boost in performance, but in order to fully utilize your turbo's capability, and make it a reliable car, you'll have to build the bottom end of a D series block to hold it. Most "small" turbos are capable of flowing better at higher pressures than a D series OEM rotating assembly and block can handle. a 14b is good for 17 PSI, and flows in the neighborhood of 380 CFM. A 13c can do 320CFM at 15 PSI, and will spool so much faster than most of the popular turbos (you can find those used for under $125). It seems like a shame to limit them to half of their effective potential just because you didn't spring for the internals. Spending money on internals is worth it because it lets you milk every drop of performance out of the rest of your investment, but you've really got to love your Honda a lot to spend what it takes to run 13's or better.

I built my D series for economy (so did Honda). I'm really happy with it that way, too. I'd never boost this engine when I could by a whole 90-94 FWD turbo DSM for less than what a Civic turbo kit would cost, and it would be faster anyways. Anyone that can get a civic in the 13's deserves credit. Or should I say... Credit relief? I'd hate to pay off that bill, so I'd just rather appreciate the people who do for the sake of my entertainment. All the stuff is available to build an absurdly strong and powerful D series that would make you laugh at a B series swap, but it costs just as much to do it either way.