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Old 06-30-2003 | 11:21 PM
  #31  
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DanyeruDono
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^ that is for 97 EX motor, the 95 EX has 125 if i remember reading Correctly in another forum.
But then again, No other Forum Is THIS GOOD!
Old 06-30-2003 | 11:28 PM
  #32  
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D15Z1 all the way. All non powerful VTEC-E
Old 06-30-2003 | 11:37 PM
  #33  
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Kai
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D15A3. Soon to be yet another traitor.h:
Old 07-01-2003 | 12:00 AM
  #34  
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What is the Engine series of a 2000 Civic non-Vtec?
Old 07-01-2003 | 12:01 AM
  #35  
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Originally posted by neworder59
What is the Engine series of a 2000 Civic non-Vtec?
D.
Old 07-01-2003 | 12:26 AM
  #36  
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DanyeruDono
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I have a 97 D16Y8 and love it, it is good motor, driven 120k miles HARD as HELL. the motor has had No problems, vs the Tranny Breaking at 90k and clutch at same time

anyways, i have seen some D series motor doing Low 14's high 13's on low boost.(in this Forum) I am wondering what u have to do to an engine before u can boost it (properly Tuned)

do i have to rebuild my motor to Turbo? what is average cost?
and what all should you replace when u rebuild?
Old 07-01-2003 | 07:23 AM
  #37  
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there is no way im going to go b16. im keeping my y8. why would i want to do an engine swap for a motor that only has 4 lb-ft of torque more than my y8. :ghey: i've beaten a couple SIs before especially going uphill..lol
Old 07-01-2003 | 07:35 AM
  #38  
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Originally posted by NeverBX
there is no way im going to go b16. im keeping my y8. why would i want to do an engine swap for a motor that only has 4 lb-ft of torque more than my y8. :ghey: i've beaten a couple SIs before especially going uphill..lol
It's not really a race if the other person doesn't know you're racing. :db:
Old 07-01-2003 | 07:39 AM
  #39  
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D !
Old 07-01-2003 | 09:54 AM
  #40  
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D's aren't so bad, but certainly not built for boost from the factory. If you're going to try to make real power with it, always use a block guard. The full-floating sleeve design of the D series engine doesn't play well with boost.

Get the Eagle rods because the factory rod isn't rated for what a boosted engine's cylinder pressures hit, and if you have a 1.6L, you can get the Eagle crank, too. It's not available for the 1.5L. Use ARP head studs, main studs, and rod bolts with a metal head gasket, Those items are crucial to the bottom end of your block staying together, and keeping everything upstairs bolted on without turning your fluids into a milkshake.

The stock pistons will shatter when you try to press them off the stock rods, so count on replacing them, too. Preferably with 8.0:1-8.5:1 forged pistons, and TotalSeal rings. Clevite bearings would be a serious plus.

Once you add up all that crap, you'll see that you just bought a B-series for what it costs, but you'll be able to hold sick boost pressures and generate a lot of power. I prefer to buy an engine that was already turbo'ed since it already has all the expensive hardware in it, and it's usually already beefy enough to hold more.

It's just too bad Honda only makes factory turbocharged jet-skis. I wonder if I could swap my EG with one of those? They make like 170hp already, and I could prolly fit two of them under the hood... nah! I'll stick with my D15B7!



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