I got my Lower Rear Tie Bar in...
#21
Here's the instructions I posted on the 4GBoard...
Jack the car up and put it on jackstands, one one each side of the back supports. Place the jack under the LCA (Lower Control Arm) right where the strut connects to it. Then jack it up until it makes contact and then a little bit more until the wheel lifts up a bit more. Now unbolt the lower control arm bolt and pull it out. Now connect just the Neuspeed Ball Joint, washer, and the bolt and bolt it where you took the old one out. Now it should go right in very smooth, or still be pretty easy to wiggle around and get in there, look on the other side, you can see the bolt inside. Now the idea is the strut is pressing down on the LCA and in turn you have to work very hard to try to get this bolt into it's place, but by jacking it up you eliminate this problem and it goes in smooth. It took me about 30-40 minutes getting the first bolt in until I discovered this method, and the 2nd bolt took less than 30 seconds to go in, so you get the point. But now with the ball joint in just screw it in enough so that its in there but not tight. Now attached the bar to it and screw it in almost all the way, I left but 1 thread from being all the way on, now attached the other ball joint and everything associated with it to the other end and leave 1 thread and now try to get the bolt in there. Should be pretty damn easy as long as you have equal threads on each side. Now bolt it in but not all the way, then go back and forth tightening each side's bolt until they are even and both fully tight. Now you are done.
Jack the car up and put it on jackstands, one one each side of the back supports. Place the jack under the LCA (Lower Control Arm) right where the strut connects to it. Then jack it up until it makes contact and then a little bit more until the wheel lifts up a bit more. Now unbolt the lower control arm bolt and pull it out. Now connect just the Neuspeed Ball Joint, washer, and the bolt and bolt it where you took the old one out. Now it should go right in very smooth, or still be pretty easy to wiggle around and get in there, look on the other side, you can see the bolt inside. Now the idea is the strut is pressing down on the LCA and in turn you have to work very hard to try to get this bolt into it's place, but by jacking it up you eliminate this problem and it goes in smooth. It took me about 30-40 minutes getting the first bolt in until I discovered this method, and the 2nd bolt took less than 30 seconds to go in, so you get the point. But now with the ball joint in just screw it in enough so that its in there but not tight. Now attached the bar to it and screw it in almost all the way, I left but 1 thread from being all the way on, now attached the other ball joint and everything associated with it to the other end and leave 1 thread and now try to get the bolt in there. Should be pretty damn easy as long as you have equal threads on each side. Now bolt it in but not all the way, then go back and forth tightening each side's bolt until they are even and both fully tight. Now you are done.
#23
Originally posted by fujiwara takumi
isnt it tying together the bottom of the chassis strut towers?
isnt it tying together the bottom of the chassis strut towers?
Tie Bars attach to the places where the LCAs bolt to the (I guess) frame of the car.
It's hard to take pictures of it since my car has the muffler go right in front of it. But if you can find a picture of a newer Civic with one you will see.
#25
Originally posted by FourthGenHatch
Strut Bars attach to the tops of the Struts where the screw that comes up through the body is.
Tie Bars attach to the places where the LCAs bolt to the (I guess) frame of the car.
It's hard to take pictures of it since my car has the muffler go right in front of it. But if you can find a picture of a newer Civic with one you will see.
Strut Bars attach to the tops of the Struts where the screw that comes up through the body is.
Tie Bars attach to the places where the LCAs bolt to the (I guess) frame of the car.
It's hard to take pictures of it since my car has the muffler go right in front of it. But if you can find a picture of a newer Civic with one you will see.
i know what its about bro, i just wanted to clarify a bit...even though it cant physically attach to the strut, theres a reason its called that, its not necessarily a "mistake"
btw, slips look good. i think my slips will be on my 4th gen when i get bored of them
#26
Originally posted by fujiwara takumi
'
i know what its about bro, i just wanted to clarify a bit...even though it cant physically attach to the strut, theres a reason its called that, its not necessarily a "mistake"
btw, slips look good. i think my slips will be on my 4th gen when i get bored of them
'
i know what its about bro, i just wanted to clarify a bit...even though it cant physically attach to the strut, theres a reason its called that, its not necessarily a "mistake"
btw, slips look good. i think my slips will be on my 4th gen when i get bored of them
#28
I think you two have confused anybody reading this thread.
man with that carburator I was like :wtf:
one time I loosened the bolt holding the lca to the frame and found out your method very quickly. helps to do the same installing springs.
man with that carburator I was like :wtf:
one time I loosened the bolt holding the lca to the frame and found out your method very quickly. helps to do the same installing springs.
#29
Originally posted by skubb
I think you two have confused anybody reading this thread.
man with that carburator I was like :wtf:
one time I loosened the bolt holding the lca to the frame and found out your method very quickly. helps to do the same installing springs.
I think you two have confused anybody reading this thread.
man with that carburator I was like :wtf:
one time I loosened the bolt holding the lca to the frame and found out your method very quickly. helps to do the same installing springs.